Leveling Tabletop Epoxy Without Telegraphed Scratches

Tabletop epoxy can look like a sheet of glass—until waves, sags, or dust nibs show up under bright light. The trick is leveling the surface cleanly and building back shine without leaving scratch patterns that telegraph through your final coat. This guide walks you through a controlled, repeatable process that flattens epoxy safely, steps through the right grits, and finishes with a glossy, swirl-free surface.

Why sanding (carefully) matters

Epoxy is a tough, plastic-like surface. Coarse abrasives can bite fast but also leave deep grooves that are hard to remove. If those grooves remain, they’ll show as ghost lines after you recoat—this is scratch telegraphing. Using the right grits, light pressure, and plenty of lubrication helps you flatten low spots and erase scratches in sequence so the final coat bonds and lays down clear.

Tools & supplies

• Rigid sanding block or a hard-pad random orbital sander (5–6 in)
• Spray bottle with clean water and a drop of dish soap (for wet sanding)
• Pencil or wax pencil for grid marks
• Microfiber towels and a squeegee
• Nitrile gloves, eye protection, and dust mask/respirator
• Bright raking light (flashlight or work light)
• Cleaning solvent compatible with your brand of epoxy (per manufacturer)

Recommended grit sequence (epoxy leveling)

• Leveling: 220 grit to knock down waves and nibs while avoiding deep gouges.
• Refining: 320 → 400 grit to remove 220 scratches and prep for gloss.
• Pre-polish: 600 → 800 → 1000 grit to erase fine haze and prevent telegraphing.
• Finish options: Recoat with epoxy, apply a 2K clear, or polish to a sheen.

Step-by-step leveling process

1. Mask edges and protect the base. Tape off edges, hardware, and any open grain wood. Epoxy dust is slippery—keep your workspace organized and dry underfoot.
2. Mark a light grid. Use a pencil to draw a cross-hatch grid across the surface. This tells you where high and low spots remain as you sand.
3. Flatten with 220 grit (wet). Mist the surface and sand with a hard backing to stay flat. Use light, overlapping passes and check under a raking light. For a dependable supply, see 220 Grit Sandpaper (25-pack) and keep sheets fresh as they load.
4. Rinse and inspect. Squeegee the slurry, wipe with a microfiber, and re-mark any faint grid. If you still see shiny low spots, you’re not level yet—continue gently at 220 until the sheen is uniform matte.
5. Refine to 400 grit. Step through 320 if needed, then level your scratch pattern at 400 using the same wet-sanding technique. This clears 220 lines and sets you up for either a recoat or a polish. If you need more sheets mid-project, the 400 Grit Sandpaper (50-pack) covers larger jobs without mid-workflow shortages.
6. Pre-polish at 1000 grit. For a recoat, you can stop at 320–400, but for a gloss polish or ultra-clear topcoat, continue through 600 → 800 → 1000 until the surface shows a uniform, ultra-fine haze. When you’re ready for the final refinement, use 1000 Grit Sandpaper (100-pack) for consistent, swirl-free results across big tabletops.
7. Deep clean before finishing. Rinse thoroughly, wipe dry, and let the surface air out. Use a brand-approved solvent to remove any residue before recoating or polishing.
8. Recoat or polish. For epoxy recoats, follow your manufacturer’s re-coat window and film build guidance. If polishing, switch to non-aggressive compounds and firm foam pads, keeping heat low and pad clean.

Special cases & troubleshooting

Deep sags or runs: Start with careful card-scraping or block the area at 180–220, then feather outward so you don’t dish a trough. Rebuild with a thin flood coat if needed.
Air bubbles & pinholes: Level at 220, solvent-wipe, then apply a thin seal coat before your final pour. Trapped air in open grain can reappear if not sealed.
Soft or partially cured epoxy: Don’t sand. Let it reach full cure per the resin system; otherwise you’ll gum up abrasives and distort the surface.
Dust nibs after recoat: Let cure, knock them back with 600–800, and polish or re-clear.

Pro tips

• Use hard backing to keep the surface flat—soft foam pads can create scallops and telegraph later.
• Keep the surface flooded for wet sanding; the slurry acts like a lapping compound and reduces scratching.
• Change sheets often. Loaded paper cuts erratically and can drag scratches across shiny low spots.
• Sand in one direction per grit (e.g., north–south at 220, east–west at 400). Cross-hatch makes it obvious when a previous scratch pattern is gone.
• Let the piece sit after cleaning so solvents fully flash before recoating.

Aftercare

• Use mild soap and water for routine cleaning; avoid abrasive powders and aggressive pads.
• Protect from hot pans and strong solvents; use coasters and trivets.
• Refresh the sheen periodically with a non-aggressive polish—start at 1000–1500 if you ever need to re-level light marks.
• Control UV exposure. Indoors, add a clear topcoat with UV inhibitors if the table lives near windows.

FAQs

• Can I start at 120 to go faster? You can, but it risks deep scratches that print through. Most epoxy levels predictably at 220 when paired with a hard backing and water.
• Do I have to wet sand? Dry sanding works, but wet sanding cools the surface, keeps paper cutting, and dramatically reduces dust and scratch severity.
• Where should I stop if I plan to recoat with epoxy? 320–400 leaves ideal micro-tooth for bonding without visible scratches after the pour.
• How do I know I’m flat? Use a pencil grid and raking light—when all shine is gone and the grid disappears evenly, you’re level.

Video tutorial

Closing

Leveling epoxy is about patience and a disciplined grit progression. Start flat at 220, refine to 400, and take it to 1000 when you need a polish-ready surface. Follow the steps above and your next tabletop will cure clear and glossy—without telegraphed scratches.