Screen & Recoat Wood Floors: 120–220 Grit Guide

Want fresher-looking hardwood without the mess of a full sand-down? A screen & recoat removes light scratches and dullness, then lays a new topcoat over the existing finish. It’s faster, cleaner, and preserves wood thickness. The key is a gentle, even scratch that promotes adhesion—typically a tight ladder of 120 → 150 → 220—plus dust control and great edge discipline. Below is a proven process to help your next recoat bond beautifully and flash out smooth.

Why Sanding (Screening) Matters

Fresh finish needs a clean tooth to grab. If you under-scratch, the new coat can peel; if you cut too deeply, you’ll telegraph swirl marks and risk cutting through stain at edges. A disciplined screen-and-recoat (1) sets an even, shallow scratch across the old finish, (2) levels micro-texture and knocks down nibs without exposing bare wood, and (3) protects edges and thresholds where cut-through is most likely.

Tools & Supplies

• Floor buffer (or orbital floor sander) with screen discs or mesh; optional maroon pad as an interface.
• Detail sander / random-orbit (DA) for edges and corners with a firm pad.
• Hand sanding block (firm) for trim lines, stairs, and tight spots.
• Grits: 120, 150, 220 (screens and sheets as needed).
• Vacuum/dust extractor (HEPA preferred), microfiber mops, and tack cloths (finish-safe, used lightly).
• Raking/inspection light; painter’s tape for baseboards/thresholds.
• Finish system: waterborne or oil-modified polyurethane compatible with the existing coat (check label for abrasion-only recoats).
• PPE: respirator for fine dust, knee pads, eye/ear protection; good ventilation.

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 120 grit: Primary scuff to build uniform adhesion scratch on existing finish.
• 150 grit: Refinement—erases 120 lines and evens texture without burnishing.
• 220 grit: Final pre-coat kiss for show areas; tightens the field for smoother laydown.

Step-by-Step: Clean Tooth, Smooth Recoat

1. Assess eligibility. A screen & recoat works when the old finish is intact (no gray wood, deep gouges, wax, or heavy contamination). If you see bare wood patches, deep cupping, or adhesive residue, plan a full sand or localized repair instead (see Special Cases).
2. Prep & protect. Remove furniture, vacuum thoroughly, and tape off baseboards, vents, and thresholds. Kill airflow that stirs dust. Set raking lights low to reveal scuffs and residue.
3. Scuff the field at 120. Mount a 120 screen/mesh under a maroon pad on the buffer and work in overlapping passes with feather-light pressure. Your goal is an even matte—not removal to bare wood. For edges and corners, switch to a DA kept dead-flat and load 120 Grit (25-pack) sheets on a firm block or the DA pad; two counted passes near trim are plenty.
4. Refine at 150. Change direction slightly so leftover 120 paths pop and disappear. Keep the buffer moving; avoid dwell at doorways and around floor registers. For edge refinement and stair treads, wrap a firm block with 150 Grit (50-pack) and make long, with-grain strokes.
5. Final kiss at 220 (show areas). Before topcoat—especially on entry halls and dining rooms—make a quick, even pass at 220 Grit (100-pack). Two light passes are enough to tighten the scratch for smoother flow and fewer brush/roller marks. If the surface starts to shine while sanding, you’re burnishing—swap to a fresh sheet and lighten up.
6. Edge discipline. Do perimeters by hand on a firm block with the current grit. Keep machines off knife-sharp transitions and thresholds; most cut-throughs start at edges.
7. De-dust meticulously. Vacuum in two directions, microfiber mop, then lightly tack. Any grit left behind becomes a nib under the new coat.
8. Recoat smart. Apply finish per label: correct applicator (T-bar/roller/applicator pad), spread rate, and recoat window. Maintain a wet edge; work out of strong light to reduce lap marks. Let cure fully between coats; only de-nib a sandable coat (it should powder) at 220–320 if needed.

Special Cases

Wax or oil contamination: If water beads on the floor or a rag picks up wax, don’t recoat until the surface is chemically cleaned and water wets uniformly. Many factory oil soaps/waxes block adhesion.
Deep scratches/gouges: Spot fill, level, and blend before screening, or plan a full sand. Screening alone won’t erase deep defects.
Aluminum oxide factory floors: Some prefinished floors have ultra-hard top layers. Abrade with fresh screens and confirm adhesion with a tape test on a small area before committing.
UV-cured finishes: Similar: scuff aggressively at 120 with fresh media and perform an adhesion test.

Pro Tips

• Even matte = ready for finish. Shiny islands mean untouched zones—stay at the current grit until sheen is uniform.
• Fresh media beats pressure. When cut slows, switch to a fresh screen. Pressure creates swirls and premature burnish.
• Feather your exits. At doorways and around posts, shorten your passes so you don’t dwell and print arcs.
• Edge by hand. Firm block, two counted strokes per grit. Machines near thresholds are swirl and cut-through factories.
• Test first. Always screen and recoat a closet or small area to confirm adhesion—especially on unknown/old finishes.

Aftercare

• Protect new coats from grit for the first week; felt pads under furniture, no rugs with rough backing until fully cured.
• Clean with pH-neutral floor cleaners and a microfiber pad. Avoid waxes or silicone polishes unless the system specifies them.
• Plan maintenance: a light 220 de-nib and a thin refresh coat years later keeps floors looking fresh without deep sanding.
• Manage humidity; large swings can stress finishes and joints.

FAQs

• Can I skip 150 and go 120 → 220? You can on some floors, but 150 makes it easier to erase 120 tracks uniformly without burnish.
• Will screening remove pet stains or gray wood? No—those require a full sand to bare wood and color correction.
• What applicator is best? T-bars and applicator pads lay thin, even coats fast on big rooms; rollers work but can add stipple if overloaded.
• How many coats after screening? Typically 1–2, per product. More thin coats beat one thick coat.
• Do I need to de-nib between coats? Only when the coat is truly sandable (it should powder). Use 220–320 lightly to knock down nibs.

Watch & Learn

Closing: A great screen-and-recoat is all about even scratch and clean surfaces. Keep the buffer moving, edges protected, and your ladder tight: build adhesion with 120 (edge work with 120 Grit, 25-pack), refine universally at 150 (150 Grit, 50-pack), and—on show floors—finish with a light 220 kiss (220 Grit, 100-pack) before you lay the coat. Do that, and your new finish will bond strong and look silky.