Restoring a Weathered Wooden Deck: Step-by-Step Sanding & Refinishing Guide (60–220 Grit Sequence)

A weathered wooden deck can make your outdoor space look tired and worn. Over time, sun exposure, rain, and foot traffic break down the surface, causing splinters, fading, and rough patches. Sanding and refinishing your deck is the most effective way to restore its natural beauty and extend its lifespan. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll walk through the entire process—from rough sanding with Grit 60 to smooth finishing with Grit 220—so your deck is ready for stain or sealant.

Why Sand Your Deck?

Outdoor decks endure constant exposure to the elements. Even treated lumber will eventually gray, splinter, or become rough. Sanding removes surface damage, smooths uneven areas, and opens the wood grain so stain or sealant can penetrate deeply. Skipping sanding often leads to blotchy finishes, poor adhesion, and a surface that wears prematurely.

Tools & Materials

• Belt sander or drum sander for large flat areas
• Orbital sander for edges and railings
• Sanding block for tight spots
• Vacuum or leaf blower
• Tack cloths
• Deck cleaner or wood brightener
• Protective gear: mask, goggles, gloves
• Multiple grits of sandpaper
• Wood stain or sealer

Best Grit Sequence for Deck Restoration

• Grit 60 — Aggressive removal of weathered wood, old coatings, and splinters
• Grit 100 — Smoothing after coarse sanding, removing deep scratches
• Grit 150 — Further refining the surface before finish prep
• Grit 220 — Final smoothing for stain or sealant application

Step-by-Step Process

1. Inspect and prepare your deck. Check for loose boards, protruding nails, or structural damage. Tighten screws and replace damaged boards before starting. Remove all furniture, plants, and rail decorations to give yourself a clear work area.
2. Clean the surface thoroughly. Use a deck cleaner or wood brightener to remove dirt, mildew, and surface grime. A clean surface prevents debris from getting ground into the wood during sanding. Allow the deck to dry fully before moving on.
3. Start with aggressive sanding. Using Grit 60 (10-pack), sand the surface to remove the gray, weathered layer and any old coatings. Work in the direction of the grain to prevent gouging. A belt sander or drum sander works best for large flat areas, while an orbital sander is ideal for edges and smaller spots.
4. Smooth the surface with medium grit. Switch to Grit 100 (25-pack) to eliminate deep scratches left by the coarse grit and create a more even texture. Vacuum thoroughly between grit changes to avoid carrying larger particles into finer sanding steps.
5. Refine further with fine grit. Move to Grit 150 (50-pack) to prepare the deck for the final pass. This step significantly improves the smoothness while still leaving enough texture for stain to bond properly.
6. Final smoothing before finish. Use Grit 220 (100-pack) for your last pass. This grit level provides a silky surface that enhances the look of stain and ensures even penetration.
7. Detail sanding. Use a sanding block or folded sheets for tight corners, railings, and between boards. Matching your grit sequence here keeps the finish consistent.
8. Final cleanup. Vacuum or blow off all dust, then wipe with a tack cloth. Any leftover dust can interfere with stain adhesion and cause a rough feel.
9. Apply your finish. Choose a high-quality exterior stain or sealant. Apply according to the manufacturer’s instructions, working in small sections to avoid lap marks. Allow adequate drying time and apply a second coat if needed.

Special Cases

For decks with softwoods like cedar or pine, you may want to stop at Grit 150 to leave more texture for stain adhesion. Hardwoods like teak or ipe can be sanded up to Grit 220 for a more refined look.

Pro Tips for Success

• Always sand in the direction of the wood grain to prevent visible scratches.
• Replace sandpaper as soon as it clogs or wears down to maintain efficiency.
• Work in the shade if possible—direct sunlight can cause finishes to flash dry and streak.
• Wear protective gear to guard against dust inhalation and eye irritation.

Aftercare

• Reapply stain or sealant every 1–3 years depending on exposure and wear.
• Keep the deck swept clean to reduce dirt and mildew buildup.
• Use outdoor rugs sparingly; trapped moisture can damage wood over time.

FAQs

• Can I use a pressure washer instead of sanding? A pressure washer removes surface dirt but doesn’t smooth the wood or remove deep damage. Sanding is still necessary for a truly restored surface.
• Should I sand a painted deck? Yes, but you’ll need to remove as much paint as possible before refinishing. Start with coarse grit and progress gradually to finer grits.
• How do I prevent uneven stain absorption? Follow the grit sequence without skipping steps, and apply stain evenly with a quality brush or pad applicator.

Watch & Learn

By following this methodical grit progression—starting with Grit 60 (10-pack) for aggressive removal and finishing with Grit 220 (100-pack) for smooth refinement—you can restore your weathered deck to a beautiful, long-lasting surface that’s ready for years of enjoyment.