Restore Cloudy Headlights: 600?1500?3000 Wet Sanding + Polish

Cloudy, yellowed headlights make night driving unsafe and age your car instantly. The fix is a proven wetsanding ladder: 600 ? 1500 ? 3000, followed by a polish and UV protectant. This sequence removes oxidation, clears haze, and restores clarity so your headlights shine bright again. With the right paper, light pressure, and water, the job takes under an hour and costs far less than replacement lenses.

Why Headlights Cloud

Most headlights are polycarbonate plastic with a thin UV coating. Sunlight breaks that coating down, leading to oxidation, yellowing, and haze. If you only polish, the cloudiness comes back fast. Proper sanding removes the degraded surface and prepares the plastic for a long-lasting polish and seal.

Tools & Materials

• 9×11 in wet/dry sandpaper sheets: 600, 1500, 3000
• Foam sanding pad or soft interface pad
• Spray bottle with water + drop of dish soap
• Microfiber towels
• Plastic polish or headlight restoration compound
• UV sealant or clear coat made for headlights
• Painter’s tape and plastic to mask paint around lights

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 600 grit — Removes heavy oxidation and yellowing.
• 1500 grit — Refines 600 scratches into a finer haze.
• 3000 grit — Polishes the surface nearly clear before compound.

Step-by-Step: Headlight Restoration

1. Mask the area. Tape around the headlight to protect paint and trim. Overlap edges with plastic if possible.
2. Wet-sand at 600 grit. Spray the headlight and 600 grit (25-pack) sheet often. Sand in straight, overlapping strokes until the surface feels uniformly smooth and the yellow layer is gone. The lens will look cloudy—that’s normal.
3. Refine at 1500 grit. Switch to 1500 grit (50-pack). Wet-sand in a perpendicular direction to your 600 strokes. This erases 600 scratches and begins clearing the haze.
4. Final pass at 3000 grit. Move to 3000 grit (100-pack). Sand with water until the lens looks evenly frosted but nearly transparent. The goal is a fine, satin finish ready for polish.
5. Polish. Apply plastic polish with a foam pad or microfiber. Buff until the lens turns clear. Work in small sections and reapply as needed.
6. Seal. Finish with a UV protectant or clear coat. Without it, oxidation returns quickly. Apply per product instructions.

Special Cases

Deep cracks or chips: Sanding won’t remove structural damage. Consider replacement lenses.
Severe yellowing: Start at 400 grit, then work up through 600, 1500, and 3000.
Light haze only: You can skip 600 and begin at 1500 for faster results.

Pro Tips

• Keep the surface wet at all times—dry sanding scratches plastic deeply.
• Sand in alternating directions at each grit so you can see when scratches are fully removed.
• Use firm, even pressure—don’t rely on fingertips, which create grooves.
• Change water often to prevent grit contamination.
• Seal immediately after polishing to prevent quick re-oxidation.

Aftercare

• Reapply UV protectant every 6–12 months for longevity.
• Wash headlights with car shampoo—avoid harsh chemicals that strip sealants.
• For touch-ups, a quick 3000 grit wet-sand and repolish refreshes clarity fast.

FAQs

• Do I need a power buffer? No—hand polishing works fine, though a DA polisher speeds it up.
• Can toothpaste work? Only as a very mild abrasive. It clears haze temporarily but won’t last without sanding and sealing.
• Why does it look worse after 600? Because the surface is uniformly scratched—that’s exactly what you want. The clarity comes back at 1500 ? 3000 ? polish.
• Will sanding remove the UV coating? Yes—and that’s why resealing with a protectant or clear coat is essential.

Video: Headlight Restoration Workflow

Closing: Cloudy headlights don’t mean replacement—just follow the 600 ? 1500 ? 3000 wet-sanding ladder, polish, and seal. With patience and water, you’ll restore safe nighttime visibility and a like-new look.