How to Fix Edger Dish-Outs Beside Baseboards for Invisible Floor Blends

When sanding hardwood floors, the small hand-held edger can sometimes remove too much material near the baseboards—creating low spots known as dish-outs. These shallow depressions catch light differently and stand out after finishing. Fortunately, with the right sanding sequence and filler strategy, you can flatten and disguise edger dish-outs without redoing the entire floor.

Why Dish-Outs Happen

Edgers are powerful, and when used too long in one area or at a steep angle, they eat deeper into the floor than drum or buffer sanders. The resulting concave spots collect finish unevenly, leaving dark halos or sheen variations. The goal is to gently level those depressions while maintaining consistent color and texture across the floor.

Recommended Tools

• Random-orbit or palm sander
• 9x11" silicon carbide sandpaper sheets
• Rigid sanding block for edge control
• Floor filler or fine wood putty (color-matched)
• Vacuum and tack cloth

Ideal Grit Sequence

• 100 grit: Re-level the dished area
• 150 grit: Blend into adjacent floor zones
• 220 grit: Final uniformity for recoat or stain

Step-by-Step: Correcting Edger Dish-Outs

1. Identify problem areas. Shine a raking light along the wall to reveal depressions. Mark each dish-out lightly with chalk or tape.
2. Spot-sand to flatten. Use 100 Grit (25-pack) sandpaper on a firm block or random-orbit sander. Sand only within the low area, keeping strokes parallel to the grain. Stop when the surface feels even under fingertip pressure.
3. Feather into the floor. Move to 150 Grit (50-pack) and extend your sanding zone 3–4 inches beyond the dish-out. This gradual transition hides the repair boundary.
4. Fill if necessary. If the dish-out remains visible, apply color-matched filler using a putty knife. Let it dry fully, then re-sand gently with 150 grit until flush.
5. Final smooth pass. Finish with 220 Grit (100-pack) to unify sheen before staining or recoating.
6. Clean thoroughly. Vacuum and tack-wipe. Inspect under raking light again—no visible halo should remain before finishing.

Special Cases

For prefinished floors, avoid heavy sanding—use filler tinted to match existing color and finish with fine-grit scuffing instead. On bare wood, consider lightly screening the entire perimeter with 180 grit for uniformity if multiple dish-outs exist.

Pro Tips

• Always keep the edger level and moving; stopping in one spot causes dips.
• Feather sanding strokes outward, not inward, to avoid overcorrection.
• Work progressively—remove small amounts and check often with a straightedge.
• Use fine silicon carbide sheets; they cut cleanly without leaving deep scratches that telegraph under finish.
• For color consistency, wipe the repair zone with mineral spirits before staining to preview results.

Aftercare

• Allow filler or sealer to cure completely before walking on repaired zones.
• Use furniture pads to prevent new compression dents near repaired edges.
• Reinspect after the first coat of finish—if sheen variation appears, scuff-sand and apply one more thin coat.

FAQs

• Can I fix dish-outs without filler? Yes—light sanding and feathering often eliminate them if the depth is under 1/32".
• Do I need to re-sand the entire room? Not usually—localized correction works when carefully blended.
• What if I sanded too deep? Spot-fill with matching putty and finish with 220 grit before resealing.

Watch & Learn

Precision edge repair starts with the right abrasives. For reliable cutting control and finish-ready smoothness, use premium silicon carbide sheets from the wood sanding collection.

Conclusion: Edger dish-outs don’t have to ruin your floor’s appearance. With the 100–150–220 grit workflow and a careful feathering approach, you can flatten imperfections and restore a perfectly even reflection—no full resand required.