Floor Screen-and-Recoat: Pads, Grits & When It Won’t Work

Want your tired polyurethane floor to look fresh without the cost, dust, and downtime of a full sand? A screen-and-recoat (also called a buff-and-coat) abrades the existing finish just enough for new polyurethane to bond, then lays one or two new coats. Done right, it erases micro-scratches, dull traffic lanes, and minor scuffs—without cutting down to bare wood.

Why Screen-and-Recoat Matters

Polyurethane protects wood, but daily grit and chair legs scratch it. As sheen dulls, most of what you see is finish wear—not wood damage. Screening scuffs the intact film to create a fresh mechanical key for new finish. Compared to full sanding, you preserve wood thickness, avoid the risk of sanding through edges and veneer, and finish in a day or two.

Tools & Supplies

• Floor buffer or random-orbit floor sander with maroon/white pads and abrasive screens (or paper discs).
• Hand sander/block for edges, under toe-kicks, and stairs.
• Wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper sheets: 150–220 range for scuffing (details below).
• Vacuum with soft brush head, microfiber mops, and tack cloths.
• Solvent for contamination checks (denatured alcohol or mineral spirits) and a water droplet test bottle.
• New finish: oil-modified or waterborne polyurethane compatible with your existing coat.
• Applicators: T-bar, roller (microfiber, thin nap), or pad applicator; paint tray and liners.
• PPE: respirator rated for finish vapors, knee pads, eye/ear protection.

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 150 grit: Primary scuff/screen to break the old sheen and level micro-nibs.
• 180 grit: Edge work and stair treads for a slightly tighter scratch (easier to hide under thin waterborne films).
• 220 grit: Optional light de-nib between coats of new finish for glassy results.

Step-by-Step: Screen, Clean, and Recoat

1. Evaluate if screening is viable. Screening won’t fix deep scratches through to bare wood, gray water stains, pet damage, or cupped boards. If you can feel a groove with a fingernail or see raw wood, that zone needs patch sanding or a full resand.
2. Check for waxes and acrylics. Drip a small bead of water on the floor. If it beads strongly across traffic lanes, there may be a contaminant layer (wax/clean-and-shine). Wipe a hidden spot with alcohol; if a milky film lifts, you’ll need to strip that first or adhesion will fail.
3. Deep clean. Vacuum thoroughly, then damp-mop with a finish-safe cleaner. Any grit left behind becomes rogue coarse “media” that cuts random scratches during screening.
4. Primary scuff (field). Mount a maroon/white pad under your buffer and attach 150-grit screen or paper. Work in overlapping passes, keeping the machine moving. Your goal is a uniform dull, abraded sheen—not removal. For consistent, predictable cut, stock 150 Grit (50-pack) sheets for edges and doorways; they mirror the screen’s bite and make touch-ups easy.
5. Edge work and details. Along baseboards, under radiators, and on stairs, hand-sand with a firm block at 180 Grit (25-pack). Keep strokes straight with the board direction to avoid visible swirls under semi-gloss sheens.
6. Vacuum and tack meticulously. Make two slow, thorough vacuum passes (different directions), then tack with a clean microfiber. Dust left on the floor becomes nibs in your new coat and can cause adhesion problems.
7. First recoat. Pour a gentle puddle line and pull with a T-bar or roll thin and even. Maintain a wet edge; overlap by a board width. Follow the product’s spread rate and ventilation guidance.
8. Optional between-coat de-nib. After the first coat cures to sand, kiss the surface with 220 Grit (100-pack) on a pole sander or hand block. You’re only knocking dust nibs—use feather-light pressure. Vacuum and tack again.
9. Second coat. Apply the final coat in the same direction as the first. If you need a third coat (heavy traffic/flat sheen), follow label recoat windows precisely.
10. Cure and protect. Respect dry times for light foot traffic, furniture move-in, and rugs (often 7–14 days for rugs). Early covering traps solvents or moisture and can imprint.

Special Cases: When Screen-and-Recoat Fails

Waxed floors: Any wax—paste, mop-and-glo style, or oil/soap—prevents adhesion. Strip thoroughly or plan a full sand.
Acrylic/“polish” build-up: Many retail gloss restorers are acrylics that peel under new poly. Test and remove before screening.
Deep wear or gray spots: If finish is worn through to bare wood, recoating will lock in discoloration. Spot-sand to wood and color-correct, or schedule a full sand.
Peeling or contamination: Existing finish that flakes indicates adhesion failure beneath; recoating won’t bond uniformly.
Oiled/penetrating finishes: Hardwax oils and penetrating oils don’t take poly on top without special prep; stick within the same system.

Pro Tips

• Don’t overcut. You’re abrading, not leveling. When the sheen is uniformly dull, stop—staying longer risks cutting through at edges.
• Fresh abrasives matter. Dull screens polish, then scratch. Flip screens halfway and replace at the first hint of glazing.
• Edge discipline. Hand-sand the perimeter first so your buffer blend passes erase any overlap lines.
• Watch corners and vents. Vacuum crevices thoroughly; dust lifts into your finish and creates nibs and fisheyes.
• Choose sheen wisely. Satin hides minor legacy scratches best; high-gloss highlights everything—invest more time at 180/220 if going glossy.
• Waterborne vs oil-modified. Waterbornes dry fast and are low odor; oil-modified ambers more and flows longer. Match to the existing look and cure timeline you can live with.

Aftercare

• Keep grit off floors: felt pads on furniture, walk-off mats at doors, and soft wheels on chairs.
• Clean with neutral pH products—avoid soaps that leave residue and polishes that add acrylic.
• Plan maintenance: a quick screen-and-recoat every 3–5 years in high-traffic zones prevents costly full sands.

FAQs

• Will screening fix pet scratches? Light surface scratches—yes. Deep gouges need spot repair or a full refinish.
• Can I use a DIY random-orbit sander instead of a buffer? For small rooms or stairs, yes—keep grits in the 150–220 range, pad flat, and avoid swirls.
• Do I need to sand between coats? Many waterborne polys allow chemical bonding within a window; de-nibbing with 220 still improves feel and appearance.
• How long before rugs go back? Follow the label. Typical guidance is 7–14 days for oil-modified and ~3–7 for many waterbornes—ventilation and humidity matter.
• Will recoating change color? Waterbornes add minimal amber; oil-modified adds warm tone. Do a closet test if color is critical.

Watch & Learn

Bottom line: If the existing film is intact and clean, a disciplined screen-and-recoat is fast, economical, and preserves your floor. Keep the grit ladder simple—150 for the main scuff, 180 for edges and stairs, and a whisper of 220 between coats for ultra-smooth results. Stock smart so you can work efficiently: edge/detail with 180 Grit (25-pack), field scuff and doorway touch-ups with 150 Grit (50-pack), and de-nib like a pro with 220 Grit (100-pack).