Best Grit Sequence: Door Frame Sanding

If you’re sanding door frame for a smooth surface for repainting, the result you want is simple: consistent cut, controlled scratches, and a surface that finishes cleanly. Most “bad” sanding outcomes come from skipping grits, pressing too hard, or letting the sheet load up—then compensating with more pressure. This guide keeps it practical: a short grit sequence, a repeatable process, and the exact spots where it pays to slow down.

All sheets referenced below support wet or dry use, so you can choose dry sanding for speed or light wet sanding to reduce airborne dust and keep the scratch pattern more consistent—especially on delicate coatings or when you want tighter scratch control.

Why Proper Sanding Matters

With door frame, sanding is really about controlling flatness and scratch pattern. Flatness makes the repair or prep invisible under raking light; scratch pattern controls how primer, paint, clear coat, or polish reflects. The wrong grit jump can leave deeper scratches that only show after you coat the surface—when it’s too late to “wish them away.”

Clogging is the silent killer: once abrasive loads up, it stops cutting and starts smearing. That leads to random drag marks and forces you to push harder, which creates more visible scratches. Light pressure, clean sheets, and a sensible grit progression keep you in control.

Tools/Recommended Tools

• Sanding block for flat areas (prevents finger grooves).
• Flexible hand pad for contours and edges.
• Vacuum/brush to remove dust between passes and reduce loading.
• Work light (low angle) to reveal ridges, halos, and swirl marks.
• Microfiber cloth for a final dry wipe before coating.
• Masking tape to protect adjacent edges or hardware.

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 400 grit — initial leveling/cut step.
• 1200 grit — refinement step to remove the previous scratches.
• 1500 grit — finishing step for a cleaner, coating-ready surface.

Step-by-Step

1. Start clean and dry. Remove loose dust and debris so you don’t grind contamination into the surface.
2. Mark the real problem areas. Use angled light and a pencil to mark ridges, edges, or shiny spots so you don’t oversand good areas.
3. Level only what needs leveling. Use 400 Grit (100 pack) with light pressure. Keep strokes consistent and stop once the high spot is gone—don’t keep cutting “just because.”
4. Expand and blend. Switch to 1200 Grit (100 pack) and work a slightly larger area to remove the previous grit’s scratch pattern. Wipe/vacuum between passes so you can actually see what you’re doing.
5. Finish the scratch pattern. Use 1500 Grit (100 pack) with very light pressure to unify the surface. This is where most visible swirl marks are prevented.
6. Check your work under raking light. If you still see a ridge or a hard edge, fix it now with the middle grit, then re-finish with the final grit.
7. Final cleanup before coating. Vacuum and wipe with a dry microfiber. Leftover dust is a common cause of gritty primer/paint and bumps in clear coat.

Special Cases

Edges and corners: Reduce pressure and use fewer passes—edges sand faster and can round over or cut through coatings quickly.

Soft materials: Stay lighter on the first grit and spend more time on the middle grit to avoid deep scratches.

Between coats: If you’re sanding between primer/paint/clear coats, keep pressure very light and focus on knocking down dust nibs, not cutting through the film.

Pro Tips

• Don’t skip big grit jumps. Each step should remove the prior scratch pattern quickly; huge jumps waste time and leave hidden scratches.
• Replace sheets early. If cutting slows, swap the sheet before you start pressing harder.
• Clean between grits. A single coarse particle carried forward can carve long scratches during finishing passes.
• Use consistent strokes. Random directions create random scratch visibility; overlap passes and keep the tool stable.

Aftercare

• Remove dust completely before primer/paint/clear coat to avoid texture and adhesion issues.
• Follow cure times for fillers/primers/coatings; sanding too early increases loading and smearing.
• Spot-fix defects (runs, nibs, ridges) with the middle grit, then re-finish with the final grit.
• Store sheets flat and dry so they cut consistently next time.

FAQs

• How do I know when to move to the next grit? When the previous grit’s scratches are gone and the surface looks uniformly sanded under angled light.
• Why do I get swirl marks? Usually clogged paper, too much pressure, sanding without a block on flat areas, or skipping a grit step.
• Should I wet sand or dry sand? Both work. Wet sanding can reduce airborne dust and help scratch control; dry sanding is faster for bulk removal.
• What if I sanded too far? If you created a dip or cut-through, it’s usually better to repair (fill/prime) than to keep sanding.
• Do I need to sand the entire surface? Only as needed for a consistent transition and proper tooth for the next layer.

Watch & Learn

Keep a simple, consistent progression and you’ll get predictable results. Browse the full range here: Super Fine Grit.