Wet-Sand Auto Clear: 1500–3000 Grit for Mirror Gloss

Orange peel, dust nibs, and faint texture can keep a fresh paint job from looking like still water. The safest way to level a cured automotive clear coat is a disciplined wet-sanding routine that runs cool, replaces scratches in tight steps, and protects edges where film build is thinnest. This guide walks you through a proven 3-step ladder—1500 → 2000 → 3000 (all wet)—so you can prep for a quick, low-heat compound/polish and reveal a mirror-gloss finish.

Why Sanding the Clear Coat Matters

Clear coat levels last. Rubbing compound alone can chase highs, build heat, and leave micro-swirls. A proper wet-sand does three things: (1) levels orange peel and dust nibs into a single plane, (2) tightens the scratch field in predictable steps so polishing is fast and cool, and (3) protects edges, body lines, and plastic trims that are easy to burn through. Your goal isn’t to “make it shiny with paper”—it’s to leave a uniform, ultra-fine haze that compounds away in seconds.

Tools & Supplies

• Wet/dry silicon-carbide sandpaper: 1500, 2000, 3000.
• Blocks: firm mini block (1–3 in.) for flats; thin soft foam interface for gentle crowns and bumpers.
• Spray bottle with clean water + a drop of dish soap (lubricant).
• Rubber squeegee to “read” the surface; clean microfibers.
• Masking tape and plastic to protect edges, trims, emblems, and rubbers.
• Dual-action polisher (DA) with foam cutting and finishing pads; medium compound and finishing polish.
• Panel wipe/IPA for final clean before polishing.
• PPE: nitrile gloves, eye protection; work in the shade on a cool surface.

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 1500 grit (wet): Primary leveling to knock down peel and nibs quickly but safely.
• 2000 grit (wet): Refinement—replaces 1500 tracks and evens the field.
• 3000 grit (wet): Pre-polish—leaves an ultra-fine haze for fast, cool compounding.

Step-by-Step: From Peel to Mirror

1. Verify cure and mask. The clear must be fully sandable: a test patch should powder slightly and not smear. Mask all edges, plastic trims, emblems, and high crown body lines. Set up a raking light to make texture easy to read.
2. Flood and map. Mist the panel with lube (water + a drop of dish soap). Lightly pencil a few crosshatch witness marks on the peel—these tell you when each grit is done.
3. Level at 1500 (wet). Wrap a fresh 1500 sheet around a firm mini block. With feather-light pressure and straight, overlapping strokes, sand a small section at a time. Squeegee every 20–30 seconds: your goal is a uniform, dull satin with no shiny islands (those are untouched highs). Rotate to a fresh part of the sheet the moment cut slows. For predictable bite at this step, stock 1500 Grit (25-pack).
4. Refine at 2000 (wet). Rinse, re-lube, then slightly change your stroke direction so leftover 1500 lines stand out. Keep the block flat; use a thin foam interface only on gentle crowns. Replace every 1500 scratch with a tighter, uniform 2000 field using 2000 Grit (50-pack).
5. Pre-polish at 3000 (wet). Rinse again, then step to 3000 Grit (100-pack). Two to three light, overlapping passes should leave a uniform, fine haze under raking light with no visible 2000 tracks. Avoid finger pressure—flat block only.
6. Clean thoroughly. Rinse the panel, blow out seams, and dry with clean microfibers. Wipe with panel wipe/IPA to remove any residues before polishing.
7. Compound, then polish. DA polisher, foam cutting pad, and a moderate compound on low–medium speed. Keep the pad flat, work small sections, minimal pressure. Stop the instant the 3000 haze clears. Switch to a finishing polish/pad to build depth and clarity. If a faint trail persists, re-enter locally at 3000 (wet), then one quick pass of compound.
8. Edge safety & trim details. Remove tape and hand-polish edges and tight spots with the finishing polish only. Avoid machine compounding on sharp body lines.

Special Cases

Fresh (soft) clear: If paper gums or smears, it’s not ready. Let the clear cure longer.
Factory baked finishes: Harder to cut—spend a hair longer at 1500 and keep lube flowing to avoid heat haze.
Runs or dust nib spikes: Knock spikes first with a nib file or a tiny block at 1500, then blend the halo 1500 → 2000 → 3000.
Textured plastics/PP bumpers: Avoid sanding textured zones; on painted plastics, use the thin foam interface and light pressure to prevent flats.

Pro Tips

• Flat block = flat reflection. Fingers create troughs that distort reflections—always block on flats, foam only to follow gentle crowns.
• Read with a squeegee. Wipe slurry often; shiny dots mean highs remain at that grit.
• Fresh sheets beat pressure. The moment cut slows, rotate or replace. Pressure makes heat and new haze.
• Crosshatch, then flow. Change angle a bit at each grit, then finish strokes in the panel’s long direction so leftover scratches reveal themselves.
• Cool, clean, controlled. Work in shade on a cool panel; keep pads clean; avoid splatter contamination—one rogue grain = one permanent pigtail.

Aftercare

• Let polish oils flash, then seal/wax per product timing (often after full outgassing of fresh paint).
• Wash with pH-neutral soap and soft media; avoid harsh cleaners for the first month on fresh resprays.
• If micro-swirls appear later, a quick 3000 (wet) spot and finishing polish usually restores clarity.
• Park in the shade when possible—UV and heat age clears; a sealant helps preserve gloss.

FAQs

• Can I start at 2000? Yes—if peel is very light. If shiny islands remain, drop briefly to 1500 to finish leveling, then continue.
• Do I need compound after 3000? Usually a brief, low-speed compound clears 3000 haze fastest, followed by a finishing polish.
• Machine sanding okay? Many pros use 1500–3000 foam-backed discs on a DA at low speed. Keep pads flat, use an interface on crowns, and finish by hand in tight zones.
• Why do I see “holograms” after polishing? Too aggressive a pad/compound or dirty pad. Step down to a finishing polish, clean the pad, and reduce speed/pressure.
• What if I hit color? Stop immediately. Re-mask, re-base and re-clear that area per paint system—sanding won’t fix a burn-through.

Watch & Learn

Closing: Mirror gloss isn’t magic—it’s sequence and touch. Keep the panel cool and clean, block flat, and climb a tight ladder: 1500 (wet) to level (25-pack), 2000 (wet) to refine (50-pack), and 3000 (wet) for a quick polish setup (100-pack). Then compound lightly and finish polish. Do that, and your clear will lay flat and reflect like glass.