Refinishing Dining Tables: Sanding for a Perfect Stain and Seal

Whether restoring an antique or updating a modern dining table, proper sanding is what separates a professional refinish from a patchy amateur job. This guide walks you through each step—from stripping old finishes to applying the final clear coat—using the ideal sandpaper grits for smooth, even stain absorption and a flawless surface.

Why Sand Before Staining

Wood grain, old coatings, and uneven absorption can cause blotches when staining. Sanding removes the old finish, smooths the pores, and preps the surface for even color. The finer you sand, the smoother and more consistent your stain will look, especially on hardwoods like oak, maple, or walnut.

Tools & Materials

• Orbital sander or hand sanding block
• Vacuum and tack cloth
• Wood conditioner and stain of your choice
• Protective gloves and safety glasses
• Silicon carbide sandpaper: 120 Grit (25-pack), 180 Grit (50-pack), and 220 Grit (100-pack).

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 120 grit: Removes old finish and levels the surface.
• 180 grit: Refines grain and prepares for stain or oil.
• 220 grit: Final smoothing before applying clear coat.

Step-by-Step: Sanding and Refinishing a Dining Table

1. Strip the old finish. If the table has varnish or lacquer, use a chemical stripper or coarse 100–120 grit sandpaper to remove it completely. Wipe clean before continuing.
2. Sand with 120 Grit (25-pack). Go with the grain using light pressure. This flattens the surface and removes any residue or raised fibers.
3. Continue with 180 Grit (50-pack). Smooth evenly across the table, legs, and edges. This step evens the wood pores for stain absorption.
4. Finish with 220 Grit (100-pack). Lightly sand the entire piece. The surface should feel silky with a uniform matte appearance, ready for staining.
5. Apply stain and sealer. Use a pre-stain conditioner for softwoods. Apply stain evenly, wipe excess, and let dry before sealing with polyurethane or oil finish.

Special Cases

For veneer tables, avoid sanding through the thin top layer—use 180 grit as your starting point and apply light, even pressure. On hardwoods, you can finish up to 320 grit for an ultra-smooth sealed finish. If the wood has dents or deep scratches, fill them before final sanding.

Pro Tips

• Always sand with the grain to avoid visible cross-scratches.
• Vacuum thoroughly between grits to prevent leftover particles from scoring the surface.
• Wipe with mineral spirits to preview how the wood will look under stain.
• Finish edges and corners by hand to avoid uneven removal from power sanding.

Aftercare

• Allow sealer to cure fully before placing items on the table.
• Use coasters and placemats to protect from moisture and heat.
• Clean with a soft, damp cloth only—avoid harsh cleaners.
• Re-wax or re-oil annually to maintain sheen and protection.

FAQs

• Can I skip the 180-grit step? Not recommended—180 creates the right tooth for even stain absorption.
• Do I need to wet sand wood? No—keep sanding dry until after the finish coats are applied.
• Can I stain without sanding? Only on factory-prepped new wood, but results will be uneven and blotchy.

Watch & Learn

Using 120 Grit (25-pack), 180 Grit (50-pack), and 220 Grit (100-pack) ensures your dining table is perfectly prepared for staining, sealing, and years of elegant use.