Micro-Sand Face-Frame Reveals Without Rounding (220–400)

Face-frame “reveal lips” (the thin 1–3 mm ledge that frames a cabinet opening) are tiny, high-visibility details. They catch light, fingers, and paint—so if you round them, flatten them, or score them with cross-scratches, the mistake shows every time a door opens. The fix is not power-sanding harder; it’s micro-sanding: deliberate, light passes with the right grits, backed by a firm block, under raking light. This guide gives you the exact tools, grit map, and choreography to clean fuzz, erase chatter, and leave a crisp highlight that survives primer or clear finish without softening that sharp shadow line.

Why Sanding the Reveal Matters

Reveals telegraph quality. A crisp lip throws a straight highlight that makes doors and drawers feel “laser-aligned.” Over-sanded reveals look wavy and dull; too-coarse scratches absorb stain or primer unpredictably, making the rim appear dirty or shadowed. Because reveals are small, even a few heavy strokes change their geometry. Micro-sanding creates a uniform, with-grain scratch field without removing the arris—the bare minimum needed for adhesion and touchable smoothness.

Tools You’ll Need

• Firm sanding block cut to width (cork/rubber or a hardwood slip) and a small soft pad for slight curves.
• 9×11 in silicon carbide wet/dry sheets: 220, 320, 400. All eQualle sheets support wet or dry use.
• Raking light (LED bar or headlamp) to expose cross-scratches and low spots.
• Pencil for scratch mapping; blue tape to mask adjacent faces or protect a finished interior.
• Vacuum with brush and a microfiber cloth; optional tack cloth before finishing.
• Feeler cards or business cards for quick gap checks; small square for checking door alignment.

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 220 grit: Primary cut. Levels tool fuzz, tiny glue boogers, and machining chatter without biting deep.
• 320 grit: Refines the scratch field; preps for most primers and clear coats on hardwoods and paint-grade stock.
• 400 grit (optional): Ultra-light pass for waterborne topcoats or a silky touch on clear-finished frames.

Tip: Stop sooner (220) if you’re applying a pigment-heavy primer or dark dye that benefits from a touch more “tooth.” Reserve 400 for light pre-finish refinement, not wholesale material removal.

Step-by-Step: Micro-Sand Reveals Without Rounding

1. Protect what shouldn’t be sanded. Mask the inside faces and any finished cabinet interiors. Lay a strip of blue tape along the door stop or case side just behind the reveal so accidental strokes don’t scuff the face.
2. Set up raking light and map defects. Kill overhead glare and sweep a low-angle LED along the frame. Lightly scribble the reveal with a pencil. The pencil vanishing evenly tells you you’re touching the whole lip—no hollows.
3. Primary cut at 220—backed and with-grain. Wrap a fresh sheet around a firm block cut to the reveal’s width. Keep the block flat on the lip and stroke in short, with-grain passes. Refresh paper often and vacuum between sections. For predictable, shop-friendly stock, keep a dedicated supply like 220 Grit (25-pack)—aggressive enough to erase chatter, controlled enough to preserve the edge.
4. Feather intersections and corners. Where rails meet stiles, stop and reset the block so you don’t “hook” the inside corner. Two micro-strokes from each direction beat one long swipe that rounds the junction.
5. Refine at 320, still block-backed. Switch to 320 for a quick refinement pass. Pressure should drop to “feather-touch”—you’re aligning scratches, not lowering the profile. For consistent results across a whole kitchen run, stock a bulk option like 320 Grit (50-pack); fresh paper cuts cleaner and keeps the sheen uniform.
6. Optional 400 for waterborne systems. If you’re going to a high-clarity waterborne clear or want an ultra-smooth paint edge, add three feather-light passes at 400. Avoid the temptation to “polish.” The goal is to tighten the scratch field, not change geometry. Contractor quantities such as 400 Grit (100-pack) help you keep a fresh sheet on the block so scratches stay even.
7. Check the highlight, not just the feel. Under raking light, the reveal should show a thin, straight highlight. Any flare or dip means you’ve tipped the block—correct with two balancing strokes, then stop.
8. Clear glue ghosts now. If the reveal darkens after a solvent wipe, you’ve hit glue. Spot-sand locally at 220, then re-refine at 320. Don’t chase the ghost across the whole frame.
9. Dust control before primer/finish. Vacuum, microfiber, and (optionally) a very light tack. Dust left on the lip turns into nibs right where fingers land.
10. Prime/finish with edge discipline. Brush or spray from the field toward the reveal and lift off, rather than flooding the lip. Thin coats keep the shadow line crisp; heavy coats soften the geometry you just perfected.

Special Cases & Adjustments

Paint-grade poplar/MDF frames: Both are soft. Keep 220 passes minimal and consider skipping 400; over-polishing can reduce primer bite and round corners faster. MDF reveals especially like to fuzz—if they do, seal, then micro-sand at 320 after the first primer coat.

Stained hardwood (maple/cherry): Stop at 220 before color to avoid burnishing that blocks dye. After dye and a seal coat, a whisper-light 320 pass evens whiskers without cutting color.

Oak/ash with open pores: Pores near the reveal can trap primer and look lumpy. Aim your block strokes to “bridge” across pores with minimal pressure, then level nibs gently at 320 between coats.

Profiled reveals (small bevels/beads): Switch to a soft pad or a folded sheet and ride the profile with feather pressure. Let the paper conform; never twist the block across a bead.

Repairs and putty: Spot-fill chips after the 220 pass, then re-level locally at 320. Keep filler below the final surface so primer and paint can bridge without a hump.

Pro Tips

• Block for flats, pad for curves: The backer sets your geometry. Floppy pads round edges fast.
• Short strokes win: Long, sweeping strokes wander. Use 2–4 inch strokes that you can control.
• Always end with-grain: Even tiny cross-scratches will telegraph through paint and dye along a reveal.
• Light beats pressure: If it isn’t cutting, swap to a fresh piece, not a heavier hand.
• Sequence discipline: Don’t jump from 220 to 400 and expect 400 to erase coarse lines cleanly.
• Use the “pencil test” every grit: Quick scribbles tell you when the whole lip has been touched—no more, no less.

Aftercare

• Between coats, de-nib gently at 320–400 with a soft pad to knock dust without dulling corners.
• Let finishes cure fully before hardware install; freshly soft films dent at the reveal first.
• Use mild cleaners; abrasive pads will flatten the lip over time.
• If a door rubs and scuffs the reveal, adjust hinges before you “fix” the frame with more sanding.

FAQs

• Can I use a random-orbit sander? Not on the reveal itself. Use the ROS on broad faces; switch to a block for the lip.
• What if the reveal is already rounded? You can crisp it slightly with a shooting board and a sharp block plane, then return to micro-sanding. Otherwise, it may need a thin applied bead or a new frame member.
• Should I wet-sand? Keep liquids off bare MDF and soft paint. After sealing, a light damp-sand at 400 can help with waterborne clears.
• Why does the reveal look dirty after primer? Likely cross-scratches or glue ghosts. Re-establish a with-grain pattern at 220 and refine at 320, then spot-prime.
• How much material should I remove? As little as possible—think “polish the surface,” not “change the shape.” If your pencil map doesn’t vanish evenly, fix pressure or backer, not time-on-grit.

Watch: Micro-Sanding Close-Up

Closing

Micro-sanding face-frame reveals is a small task with outsized impact. Keep the backer firm, the pressure light, and the strokes short and with the grain. Follow a simple progression—220 → 320 (→ 400)—and read your highlight under raking light. Protect adjacent faces, clean between grits, and resist “just one more pass.” Do that, and your reveals will stay crisp, your paint will flow smoothly over the lip, and every cabinet will look expertly fitted.