Cabinet Scuff-Sanding: 220 + Deglosser vs Full Strip

Repainting kitchen or bath cabinets? The biggest time-saver is knowing when a simple scuff-sand + degloss will deliver pro-level adhesion—and when you must fully strip the old finish. This decision guide gives you an inspection checklist, a safe grit ladder for scuffing, and a step-by-step workflow that keeps edges crisp, avoids clogging soft latex, and sets your primer up to bond like it should.

Why Sanding Matters Before Repaint

Paint sticks two ways: chemically (within the recoat window or with special primers) and mechanically (micro-tooth from sanding). On cabinets, you’re often painting over cured alkyd, lacquer, conversion varnish, or old latex—systems with different chemistry. A controlled scuff-sand creates reliable tooth across all of them, knocks down nibs/grease shine, and reveals any failure zones you must spot-repair. Attempting to “just paint over” glossy or contaminated films is how you get peeling at door edges and around pulls.

Tools You’ll Need

• Hand sanding block (firm face) and a soft foam pad for profiles/ogees.
• Random-orbital (DA) sander with soft interface pad and dust extraction (low speed).
• Wet/dry silicon carbide sheets: 220, 320, 400.
• Liquid deglosser or solvent wipe compatible with your primer system.
• Degreaser (TSP substitute), microfiber towels, tack cloth.
• Raking/inspection light; painter’s tape to protect knife-sharp edges.
• Bonding primer suited to the existing finish (stain-blocking if needed).
• PPE: respirator, gloves, eye protection; good ventilation.

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 220 grit: Primary scuff to break sheen and remove light nibs with minimal cut.
• 320 grit: Refinement for show faces/doors; tightens the scratch field before primer.
• 400 grit: Optional de-nib between coats of primer/paint for glassy results.

Step-by-Step: Fast, Clean Scuff-Sand

1. Diagnose: Scuff or Strip? Under raking light, look for widespread peeling, alligatoring, water blisters, wax/polish build-up, or heavy brush ridges. Spot tests: (a) Solvent rub—if color melts or smears, it may be lacquer/enamel and needs careful priming; (b) Cross-hatch tape pull—if paint lifts easily, integrity is poor. Extensive failures = strip. Sound, glossy but intact film = scuff + degloss.
2. Degrease thoroughly. Kitchens hide oils at pulls, stiles, and rails. Clean with a finish-safe degreaser; rinse and dry. Degreasing first prevents instant paper clogging and fisheyes later.
3. Protect edges & hardware zones. Tape knife-sharp arrises and any glass/inlays. Remove doors/drawers and number them. Lay them flat on risers for safer sanding and coating.
4. Primary scuff at 220. Wrap a firm block with 220 Grit (25-pack) and use light, with-grain strokes on flats. On frames/ogees, switch to a soft pad and keep contact even—no fingertip pressure. DA is fine on broad flats at low speed with an interface pad; keep the pad dead-flat. Stop when the sheen turns uniformly satin.
5. Refine for show faces at 320. Vacuum and wipe, then slightly change stroke direction to reveal leftovers. A brief, even pass with 320 Grit (50-pack) tightens the scratch field so primer levels beautifully without telegraphing cross-grain marks.
6. Degloss & dust control. Where the old finish still looks slick (around pulls/edges), use a liquid deglosser per label—wipe on, keep a wet edge, and allow the specified flash. Vacuum in two directions and tack. Cleanliness = adhesion.
7. Prime smart. Use a bonding primer compatible with the existing film (and stain-blocking if you have tannins/grease bleed). Apply thin, even coats; avoid over-brushing waterborne primers (they set fast). Let cure to sandable.
8. De-nib with 400 between coats. After the first primer coat powders, kiss the surface by hand with 400 Grit (100-pack). You’re knocking dust nibs—two or three light passes are enough. Vacuum, tack, and apply the next coat.
9. Topcoat. Maintain a wet edge. For sprayed enamels, keep overlap consistent. For brushed/rolled waterbornes, finish with long tip-off strokes. Respect recoat windows.
10. Hardware & reassembly. Let paint cure to handle-safe before reinstalling doors. Add felt bumpers to protect corners and reduce future chip-risk.

When You Must Strip Instead

Peeling or soft film: If the existing paint lifts with tape or feels rubbery, sanding won’t stabilize it.
Heavy brush ridges/orange peel: If texture is so pronounced that 220 can’t knock it flat quickly, stripping or aggressive mechanical leveling is faster and cleaner.
Unknown wax/polish layers: Silicone furniture polish can live in pores—if deglosser/solvent wipes keep pulling residue, strip or use a manufacturer-approved system.
Water damage: Swollen MDF edges or delaminated vinyl wraps need repair/replacement, not sanding alone.

Pro Tips

• Light pressure wins. Dull paper + pressure = heat, clogs, and shiny burnish that resists primer.
• Block the flats, pad the curves. A firm block keeps panels true; a soft pad preserves ogees without faceting.
• Alternate directions between grits. A shallow diagonal at 220, then with-grain at 320, makes leftover scratches obvious.
• Edge safety. Keep tape on edges during 220/320. Remove it before coating and hand-kiss edges at the current grit with two strokes.
• Fresh sheets beat force. The moment cut slows, rotate to a new quadrant/ sheet. Pressure just polishes, then scratches.
• Test your stack. Always do one door fully: clean → 220 → degloss → prime → 400 de-nib → topcoat. Confirm adhesion/feel before committing the whole kitchen.

Aftercare

• Let topcoats cure fully before hard use—many enamels feel dry in hours but harden over days.
• Clean with non-ammonia, finish-safe products; harsh cleaners can haze young films.
• Add felt bumpers and soft-close hardware to limit impact chips at stiles/rails.
• For future touch-ups, a quick 400 hand de-nib and a thin feathered coat blends best.

FAQs

• Can I skip sanding if I use a bonding primer? You’ll get better, more uniform adhesion with a quick 220 scuff first—primer isn’t a magic eraser for gloss and grease.
• Will 320 make adhesion worse? No—used lightly after 220, 320 tightens the field without burnishing. Avoid heavy pressure.
• Do I need to wet-sand? Not before primer. Keep it dry and dust-managed. Wet sanding is fine for cured clear coats, not raw cabinet finishes.
• My paper clogs instantly—why? Film isn’t cured or the surface is greasy. Wait longer after cleaning, switch to fresh 220, and reduce pressure.
• What about laminate (thermofoil) doors? Scuff lightly and use a primer designed for slick substrates; many pros choose replacement/paintable doors instead.

Watch & Learn

Closing: Most solid cabinet finishes don’t need a grueling strip—just a disciplined 220 scuff, targeted degloss, and clean, thin coats. For show faces, add a quick 320 refinement and a whisper-light 400 de-nib between coats to get that glass-smooth feel. Keep your staples handy so you stay disciplined at each step: start with 220 Grit (25-pack), refine with 320 Grit (50-pack), and de-nib like a pro with 400 Grit (100-pack).