Wet-Sand Automotive Clear Coat: 1500–3000 Grit Mirror Gloss

Orange peel, dust nibs, and faint texture can keep a fresh repaint from looking truly showroom. The fastest, safest way to level that micro-texture is a disciplined wet-sanding routine that tightens scratches in small steps and finishes with a short, cool polish. This guide gives you a clear, repeatable ladder—1500 → 2000 → 3000 (all wet)—plus the tool setup, pressure, and inspection tips that make the gloss pop without cutting through your clear.

Why Wet-Sanding Clear Coat Matters

Compounds alone chase highs and can leave wavy reflections. Wet-sanding (1) levels dust nibs and orange peel into a single plane, (2) replaces a coarse scratch with a finer one in predictable steps so polishing is quick and cool, and (3) controls heat because water lubricates the cut and carries away swarf. The goal isn’t to make it shiny with paper—it’s to leave a uniform, ultra-fine haze that clears in seconds during polish.

Tools & Supplies

• Wet/dry silicon-carbide sheets: 1500, 2000, 3000.
• Firm mini sanding block (1–3 in.) for flats; thin foam hand pad for subtle crowns/edges.
• Spray bottle with clean water + 1 drop dish soap (lubricant); rubber squeegee to read the surface.
• Masking tape & film to protect edges, trim, emblems, and panel gaps.
• Microfiber towels; panel wipe/IPA for degreasing before polish.
• Dual-action (DA) polisher with foam cutting & finishing pads; medium compound + finishing polish.
• Good raking/inspection light; soft pencil for faint witness marks.
• PPE: nitrile gloves, eye protection; work in shade on a cool panel.

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 1500 (wet): Primary leveling—knock down peel and nibs safely.
• 2000 (wet): Refinement—replace 1500 tracks with a tighter field.
• 3000 (wet): Pre-polish—leave a uniform haze that compounds away fast.

Step-by-Step: Flat, Uniform, and Ready to Polish

1. Confirm cure & clean. Clear should be fully cured for your system; if a light 2000 test smears instead of cutting, wait longer. Wash the panel, dry, and degrease with panel wipe/IPA.
2. Mask & map. Tape edges, body lines, and panel gaps. Under raking light, pencil a faint crosshatch on the worst orange peel zones—witness marks show when each grit has finished.
3. Level at 1500 (wet). Flood the area with soapy water. Wrap a firm mini block with 1500 Grit (25-pack) and sand with feather-light, overlapping strokes. Keep the block dead-flat on flats; use the thin foam hand pad only for gentle crowns. Squeegee every 20–30 seconds—your target is a uniform, dull satin with no shiny islands (untouched highs). Rotate to a fresh section of the sheet the instant cut slows.
4. Re-read before climbing. Rinse and squeegee. Any remaining glossy dots or orange-peel texture means you’re not through the 1500 step—finish it now rather than “polishing it out” later.
5. Refine at 2000 (wet). Relube and slightly change stroke direction so leftover 1500 lines pop and disappear. Keep pressure very light and the block flat. Replace the 1500 field with a tighter haze using 2000 Grit (50-pack). Squeegee after each minute—uniform, fine fog is your sign to move on.
6. Pre-polish at 3000 (wet). Step to 3000 Grit (100-pack). Two or three light, overlapping passes per section are enough. Under raking light you should see an ultra-fine, even haze with no visible direction.
7. Edge discipline. Keep blocks off sharp edges and panel lips; do those areas by hand with the current grit on a thin foam hand pad and fewer strokes. Most cut-throughs start at edges.
8. Clean & dry. Rinse away slurry, blow water out of gaps and mirrors, and dry with clean microfibers. Wipe with panel wipe/IPA before polishing.
9. Compound, then finish. DA polisher, foam cutting pad, modest compound, low–medium speed. Keep the pad flat, minimal pressure, small sections; stop as soon as the 3000 haze clears. Switch to a finishing polish/pad for depth and crisp reflections.
10. Final inspect. Check under multiple angles. If a faint trail remains, re-enter locally at 2000 → 3000 (wet), quick compound, then finish polish.

Special Cases

Heavy peel or runs: Knock down isolated spikes first on a firm mini block at 1500; for big defects you may briefly touch 1200, then rebuild 1500 → 2000 → 3000. Don’t try to compound down a run—level it flat first.
Fresh/soft clear: If paper loads or smears, it isn’t ready. Wait for a true cutting response that makes fine slurry.
Edges & body lines: Treat as no-fly zones for blocks. Hand-sand with very few strokes or skip and polish only.
Dark colors & show panels: Spend the time at 3000 for a fast, cool polish and fewer heat-related holograms.

Pro Tips

• Flat block = flat reflection. Fingers dig troughs that show as ripples. Block flats; foam only follows gentle crowns.
• Read with a squeegee. Wipe slurry often; shiny islands mean the current grit hasn’t fully reached those highs.
• Fresh sheets beat pressure. The instant cut slows, rotate to a new quadrant. Pressure makes heat and haze.
• Alternate directions. Small angle changes each step expose leftover scratches before you climb.
• Keep it cool. Shade, wet surface, low pad speed. If the panel warms to the touch, pause.

Aftercare

• Let polish residues flash, then seal/wax per product timing (or leave bare if you plan to recoat soon).
• Wash with pH-neutral soap; avoid harsh chemicals on fresh finishes.
• Use clean towels—dirty microfiber can re-introduce micro-marring.
• For maintenance, a quick 3000 wet spot and finishing polish usually restores clarity fast.

FAQs

• Can I start at 2000? Yes if texture is light. If shiny dots or peel remain after a brief 2000 pass, drop to 1500 to finish leveling.
• Machine wet-sand? You can at low speed with foam-backed discs, but always finish each grit by hand on a flat mini block to verify uniformity.
• Will 3000 remove scratches by itself? No—3000 only refines. Use 1500 to level, then 2000 → 3000.
• How do I avoid edge burn-through? Mask edges, keep the block fully supported, and reduce passes at borders—polish edges rather than sand.
• Why do I see haze after polishing? Usually heat or incomplete refinement. Re-enter locally at 2000 → 3000 (wet), then compound lightly with a clean pad.

Watch & Learn

Closing: Mirror gloss on clear coat isn’t luck—it’s sequence and touch. Keep the panel cool and the block flat: level safely at 1500 (25-pack), tighten the field at 2000 (50-pack), and leave a fast-to-polish haze with 3000 (100-pack). Follow that ladder, and your reflections will look deep, crisp, and absolutely wet.