Restore Motorcycle Tank Paint Clarity (1200–3000 Wet Sand)

Wet sanding automotive paint and clear coat is a balancing act: you’re removing just enough material to level the defect (orange peel, dust nibs, scratches, or a paint edge) without breaking through the clear. A consistent grit progression and light pressure are what keep the finish predictable.

Why Sanding Matters

Clear coat is thin. Random sanding marks, skipping grits, or sanding without a block can create waves that show up under reflections. Wet sanding with the right grits helps you control the cut, keep the paper from loading, and reduce the risk of deep scratches that won’t polish out.

Tools

• Soft interface sanding block (best for curved panels)
• Small hard block for tight areas (handle cups, pillars)
• Spray bottle with water + a drop of car wash soap (lubrication)
• Squeegee to check progress
• Detail masking tape for edges and trim
• Microfiber towels and panel wipe
• Compound + polish (and pads) for finishing

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 1200 grit – Leveling / defect removal
• 1500 grit – Refining scratches and improving clarity
• 2000 grit – Intermediate refining
• 3000 grit – Final refining before polishing

Step-by-Step

1. Wash and decontaminate. Clean the area so you’re not dragging grit under the paper. Dry, then inspect under strong side lighting.
2. Mask edges and trim. Tape sharp edges, badges, and adjacent panels. This is where burn-through happens fastest.
3. Start with 1200 grit (wet). Wrap the sheet on a block and sand in controlled passes. Keep the surface wet and rinse the paper often. If you’re following this exact progression, start with 1200 Grit (50 Pack).
4. Check often with a squeegee. Wipe the area dry to reveal low spots and remaining defects. Stop the moment the defect is leveled and the surface looks uniformly matte.
5. Move to 1500 grit. Sand a slightly larger area than the previous step to blend the transition. Your goal is to remove the 1200 scratch pattern completely.
6. Refine with 2000 grit. Use lighter pressure. This stage should look like a smoother, finer haze with a more uniform reflection.
7. Finish with 3000 grit. Final passes should be gentle and consistent. This reduces compounding time and lowers the risk of leftover sanding marks.
8. Rinse, dry, and wipe. Clean off all slurry and residue so you can see the true finish before polishing.
9. Compound, then polish. Remove sanding haze with compound, then restore clarity with a finishing polish.

Special Cases

Edges & body lines: Tape them. Clear is thinnest there. Fresh paint: confirm the paint system has cured enough to sand and polish without tearing or swelling. Matte finishes: sanding changes gloss—test in an inconspicuous area first.

Pro Tips

• Use a block whenever possible—fingers create trenches.
• Keep the surface dripping wet; rinse the paper often.
• Work a small area (1–2 sq ft), then re-check with a squeegee.
• Stop as soon as the defect is leveled—polishing removes remaining haze.

Aftercare

• Rinse and dry the panel; wipe with panel prep to remove residue.
• Compound until sanding haze is gone, then polish for clarity.
• Protect with a sealant/wax after the paint system allows it.

FAQs

• Why do I still see scratches after polishing? Usually a grit was skipped or you didn’t fully remove the previous grit’s scratches.
• Can I start at 800 on clear coat? Only for heavier texture; it removes material quickly—use caution.
• Do I need soap in the water? A tiny amount helps lubrication and reduces loading.

Watch & Learn

If you want to replicate the same finish reliably, keep your grit set consistent and don’t skip steps. For this workflow, these sheets cover the key refining stages: 1200 Grit (50 Pack), 1500 Grit (50 Pack), and 2000 Grit (50 Pack).

Once the surface is evenly leveled and refined, polishing becomes straightforward—and you’ll spend less time chasing random scratches. Keep your process consistent, keep it wet, and the results will follow.