Refinishing Painted Furniture: Sanding for Grip Without Burn-Through

When you’re repainting furniture that’s already been painted, the goal isn’t to remove all the old paint—it’s to give the new coat something to grip. Over-sanding can cause burn-through to wood or primer, creating uneven absorption and extra repair work. This guide explains how to scuff-sand painted furniture safely, preserving existing layers while ensuring perfect adhesion for your new finish.

Why Sanding Matters for Repainting

Old paint may look solid but can contain oils, gloss, or embedded dust that prevent new paint from bonding. Light sanding breaks the surface tension, removes contaminants, and gives the new coat mechanical traction. The trick is to dull the shine—not strip the paint entirely.

Recommended Tools

• Fine-grit wet/dry sandpaper.
• Soft hand-sanding pad or orbital sander with foam interface pad.
• Tack cloth and vacuum for dust removal.
• Deglosser or denatured alcohol (optional cleaner).
• Primer compatible with old and new paint types.

Ideal Grit Sequence

• 220 grit – Dulls gloss and smooths minor imperfections.
• 280 grit – Refines texture for uniform adhesion.
• 320 grit – Final prep before primer or topcoat.

Step-by-Step: Scuff-Sanding Painted Furniture

1. Clean thoroughly. Wipe the piece with mild soap and water, then degrease with denatured alcohol or deglosser. Let dry completely.
2. Light scuff-sanding. Using 220 Grit (25-pack) sheets, sand all painted surfaces with light, even pressure. Focus on dulling glossy areas without cutting through.
3. Edge and detail sanding. Fold 280 Grit (50-pack) paper to reach corners, carvings, and moldings. Work slowly to avoid revealing bare wood.
4. Final pass. Smooth all surfaces with 320 Grit (100-pack) wet/dry paper. This ensures even tooth across the surface for primer or direct paint application.
5. Clean up. Vacuum dust and wipe with a tack cloth before priming or painting. Residual dust can cause adhesion failure or texture defects.

Special Cases

For chalk or milk paint, start with 280 grit instead—these softer coatings can sand off too quickly. If the old paint is flaking, scrape loose areas and spot-prime before sanding the rest. On laminated furniture, skip coarse sanding and use a bonding primer after light 320 grit scuffing.

Pro Tips

• Always sand by hand around edges—power tools can cut through in seconds.
• Work under good light to ensure uniform dullness on glossy surfaces.
• Use circular or figure-eight motions to avoid visible linear scratches.
• For darker colors, add a gray primer coat to ensure consistent tone and coverage.
• Let primer cure fully before light 320 grit sanding for a silky topcoat finish.

Aftercare

• Allow at least 24 hours after final coat before reassembling or placing objects on furniture.
• Clean finished pieces with a soft damp cloth—avoid harsh chemicals for the first week.
• Touch up small chips with fine sandpaper and matching paint immediately to prevent flaking.
• For added durability, apply a clear topcoat after the paint has cured for 48–72 hours.

FAQs

• Do I need to remove all old paint? No—just sand enough to dull the surface and remove loose or glossy areas.
• Can I sand latex paint dry? Yes, but use light pressure and fine grits to avoid clogging and scratches.
• What if I sand through to bare wood? Spot-prime those areas before painting to maintain uniform sheen and color.

Watch & Learn

Repainting doesn’t mean starting from scratch. With gentle scuff-sanding from 220 to 320 grit, you’ll create the perfect grip layer for new paint—without damaging the existing finish or exposing the wood beneath.