Floor Screen & Recoat: Pads, Grits, and When It Won’t Work

Want to refresh a tired floor without the dust and downtime of a full sand? A screen and recoat (a.k.a. buff & coat) abrades the existing finish just enough for new topcoat to bond—no bare wood, no stain removal. Done right, it erases light scuffs, evens sheen, and buys years of life. Done wrong, it can peel or telegraph old scratches. This guide gives you a clean, repeatable process with the right pads, a tight grit ladder, and clear criteria for when to not screen.

Why Sanding (Screening) Matters

Modern finishes are tough. New topcoat won’t mechanically bond to a slick, fully-cured film unless you (1) scuff the entire surface uniformly, (2) remove contaminants that block adhesion (waxes, oils, polish), and (3) control scratch geometry so the fresh coat lays flat without printing swirls. The screening step creates a fine, even scratch field and levels minor raised grain—without cutting through to bare wood.

Tools & Supplies

• Floor buffer (175–300 rpm) with driver pad; maroon conditioning pad and sanding screens (120/150/180).
• Edger or hand block for perimeters, stair treads, and under toe-kicks.
• Vacuum (HEPA preferred), microfiber dust mops, and tack cloths.
• Solvent-compatible cleaner/degreaser (per your finish system) and clean white pads.
• New finish: waterborne polyurethane or oil-modified poly (follow the system’s adhesion guidelines).
• Raking light, masking tape for baseboards/vents, and floor protectors.
• PPE: respirator, eye/ear protection, knee pads; good ventilation.

Recommended Grit Sequence (Screen & Recoat)

• 120 grit: Initial cut to knock down micro-texture, scuffs, and minor contaminant residue after cleaning.
• 150 grit: Primary refinement—replaces 120 tracks and sets a uniform adhesion profile.
• 180 grit: Final pre-coat pass for a tight, swirl-free scratch that won’t telegraph.

Step-by-Step: Clean, Scuff, and Coat

1. Qualify the floor. A screen & recoat works only if the existing finish is intact (no widespread bare wood, peeling, deep gouges, pet-urine stains, waxes, or acrylic polishes). If you can scrape up a gummy film or see gray bare patches, plan a full sand instead.
2. Deep clean & decontaminate. Dry vacuum, then clean with the finish maker’s recommended prep cleaner. Use fresh white pads and flip often. If you suspect old wax or polish, spot test—if residue smears, screening will smear it too. Remove contamination first.
3. Edge protection & setup. Mask baseboards and registers. Stage the buffer with a maroon pad under your first screen. Keep a firm hand block ready for perimeters and obstacles.
4. Reset at 120. Start in the far corner and work with overlapping passes, feather-light downward pressure, and a steady pace. Your goal is even scuff, not removal. For edges and tight spots, switch to a firm block wrapped with 120 Grit (25-pack) and sand with-the-board direction to avoid cross-grain arcs. Stop when the sheen reads uniformly dull—no shiny islands.
5. Vacuum and inspect. Dust is abrasive and can imprint under the next grit. Vacuum in two directions, then dust mop with a slightly damp microfiber. Check under raking light; any glossy patches mean the 120 didn’t touch—go back locally and blend.
6. Refine at 150. Fit a fresh 150 screen and run the same pattern, changing your travel direction slightly so leftover 120 lines reveal themselves. Along thresholds and wall lines, hand sand with 150 Grit (50-pack) on the block to keep edges crisp.
7. Final pre-coat at 180. Make a quick, even pass with 180 to tighten the scratch field. Perimeters get a hand kiss with 180 Grit (100-pack). Under raking light, the floor should read as an even satin with no swirl halos.
8. De-dust meticulously. Vacuum, then dry tack. For waterborne systems, avoid oily dust-control products. Clean, dry, temperature-stable rooms lay better coats.
9. Coat promptly. Apply your finish per label: cut-in edges, then roll/pad with a wet edge. Respect spread rate and recoat windows. Waterborne polys want thin, even coats; oil-modified flows longer. Ventilate but avoid strong drafts that kick up dust.
10. Optional second coat. After the first coat cures to sandable, de-nib with a feather-light 180–220 screen or hand pass, vacuum/tack, and apply the second coat. Don’t try to “re-level” at this stage—you’re only knocking nibs.

Special Cases

Waxed or polished floors: If the surface beads water or feels slick after cleaning, it may have wax/acrylic polish. Strip completely or sand to bare wood—screening over wax causes adhesion failure.
Factory aluminum-oxide finishes: Many prefinished floors have extremely hard topcoats. Some systems require a chemical abrasion step or specific pads/screens for adhesion; follow the finish maker’s protocol.
Deep scratches/gray traffic lanes: If you can catch your fingernail in scratches or see wood through the finish, a screen won’t hide them—plan a full refinish.
Engineered floors: Screening is often safe, but check wear-layer thickness and manufacturer guidance. Avoid aggressive edge sanding.

Pro Tips

• Fresh screens > more pressure. As soon as cut slows, change or flip the screen—pressure creates swirls and hot spots.
• Walk a consistent pattern. Overlap passes 1/3 width, keep the machine flat, and avoid lingering—dwell prints halos.
• Edge discipline. Do perimeters by hand with counted strokes at each grit; machines round baseboard lines fast.
• Guide light is truth. Raking light instantly reveals shiny islands (missed spots) and directional halos—fix before coating.
• Mind the climate. Temperature and humidity change open time and cure. Stay within the finish’s specified range.

Aftercare

• Allow the coat to cure before heavy use: light socks traffic only as specified; rugs often wait 7–14 days (check label).
• Add felt pads to furniture feet and lift, don’t drag.
• Clean with neutral pH cleaners; avoid oil soaps or polishes that contaminate future recoats.
• Plan maintenance: a gentle de-nib and maintenance coat before the finish looks worn extends life dramatically.

FAQs

• Is screening dusty? Less than full sanding, but you’ll still generate fine powder—use HEPA vacs and diligent cleanup.
• Can I jump straight to 150? On lightly worn floors, yes. If sheen is uneven or there’s micro-texture, a brief 120 pass ensures full scuff.
• Why did my new coat peel? Usually contamination (wax, oil) or insufficient abrasion. Strip contaminants, re-screen uniformly, and recoat.
• Will screening remove pet stains or deep scratches? No—those require full sanding to bare wood and likely stain/repair.
• Waterborne or oil-modified? Waterborne cures fast and keeps color neutral; oil-modified ambers and needs longer dry but can be more forgiving in flow. Both demand clean, uniform scuff.

Watch & Learn

Closing: A successful screen & recoat is about coverage and control: deep clean, then run a tight ladder—120 → 150 → 180—with fresh screens, disciplined edges, and meticulous dust removal. Keep the right sheets on hand for perimeters and detail work: set uniform scuff with 120 (25-pack), refine the field cleanly with 150 (50-pack), and lock in a swirl-free profile with 180 (100-pack). Do that, and your new coat will bond beautifully and level out to a fresh, even sheen.