How to Sand a Wooden Table Before Staining (80–400 Grit Long Guide)

Refinishing a wooden table is one of the most satisfying DIY projects for homeowners and woodworking enthusiasts alike. A well-sanded and stained table can become the centerpiece of a dining room, kitchen, or office, giving old furniture new life and character. While staining might seem like the star of the show, sanding is the crucial step that determines how professional the final piece will look. In this extended guide, we’ll break down everything you need to know—grits, techniques, tools, and pro tips—so your wooden table comes out flawless.

Why Sanding a Table Matters

Tables endure daily wear and tear—knife scratches, water rings, spilled drinks, dents, and fading finishes. Over time, these imperfections dull the wood’s appearance and weaken protective coatings. Sanding solves these issues by:

• Removing old finishes such as varnish, shellac, or polyurethane that may block stain penetration.
• Smoothing dents, scratches, and uneven patches that ruin the look of stained wood.
• Opening the pores of the wood grain so stain and topcoats penetrate evenly.
• Creating a professional surface that looks polished and feels pleasant to the touch.

Skipping or rushing the sanding process leads to blotchy stains, peeling finishes, and surfaces that feel rough instead of silky. In short: sanding is not optional—it’s the foundation of furniture refinishing.

Choosing the Right Sandpaper Grits

Sanding a table is not about grabbing one sheet of sandpaper and calling it a day. It’s about moving through a sequence of grits, each one refining the work of the previous step. Here’s the grit progression you should follow for tables:

• 80 grit: The “muscle” grit. Removes old varnish, paint, and deep scratches. Best for the first pass on heavily worn tables.
• 120 grit: The transition grit. Smooths scratches from coarse sanding and begins leveling the wood surface.
• 220 grit: The prep grit. Perfects the surface, creating an even texture for stain application.
• 320–400 grit: The finish grits. Used just before staining or sealing for a silky, glass-like feel.

Recommended Tools

• Orbital sander: For large, flat surfaces like tabletops. Saves time and energy compared to hand sanding.
• Sanding block: Keeps even pressure on edges, preventing dips and grooves.
• Sponge sander: Flexible for curved legs, edges, and decorative carvings.
• Tack cloth or microfiber rags: Essential for dust removal between grit changes.
• Vacuum: Prevents dust from embedding back into the wood and ensures a clean surface.

Step-by-Step: Sanding Your Wooden Table

1. Preparation and Setup. Move the table to a well-ventilated area or workshop. Place it on a drop cloth to catch dust. Remove drawers, legs (if detachable), and any hardware.
2. Start with 80 grit for stripping. Use 80 grit (50-pack) sandpaper with an orbital sander to strip heavy finishes and scratches. Keep the sander moving to avoid gouging.
3. Smooth with 120 grit. Switch to 120 grit (25-pack) to eliminate marks left by coarse sanding. Sand with the grain and focus on leveling the surface.
4. Prep with 220 grit. Use 220 grit (100-pack) to refine the surface. This grit ensures stain soaks evenly without blotching.
5. Finish with 400 grit. For ultra-smooth results, pass over the table with 400 grit (25-pack). This step gives your table that professional touch.
6. Dust cleanup. Vacuum the surface, then wipe thoroughly with a tack cloth to remove fine particles.

Special Cases and Wood Types

Softwoods (pine, fir): Stop sanding at 180–220 grit before staining. Going finer can close the pores and prevent stain absorption.

Hardwoods (oak, maple, walnut): Work up to 320–400 grit for a refined finish. These woods handle finer sanding without losing stain penetration.

Veneer tables: Avoid coarse grits like 80, which can sand through thin layers. Start at 120 grit and sand gently.

Painted tables: If you’re repainting instead of staining, sanding to 220 grit is usually sufficient. The primer and paint will cover fine scratches.

Pro Tips for Perfect Results

• Always sand with the grain—cross-grain scratches stand out under stain.
• Keep sandpaper clean and replace it when clogged. Dull paper burnishes instead of cutting.
• Use light pressure—let the sandpaper do the work. Pressing harder doesn’t speed up sanding but can cause unevenness.
• Test stain on the underside of the table to check color absorption before applying it across the surface.

Aftercare: Protecting Your Sanded & Stained Table

• Apply stain evenly. Work in sections, wiping off excess to prevent streaks.
• Seal the surface. Use polyurethane, lacquer, or tung oil for durability. Apply multiple thin coats, sanding lightly with 320 grit between coats.
• Maintain properly. Clean with mild soap and avoid abrasive cleaners that scratch the finish.
• Prevent damage. Use coasters, placemats, and felt pads under décor items to extend the finish’s life.

FAQs

• Do I need to sand down to bare wood? Yes, if staining. If painting, you just need to scuff the surface for adhesion.
• Can I use a chemical stripper instead? Yes, but sanding is still needed afterward for smoothness.
• How smooth should the table feel before staining? It should feel silky under your hand, usually achieved with 220–320 grit sanding.
• Do I need to sand between stain and finish? Yes, a light pass with 320 grit improves adhesion between coats of polyurethane or lacquer.
• Is wet sanding recommended? Generally no for raw wood, but it can be used lightly between finish coats.

Watch & Learn

Refinish your table like a pro: Get sanding sheets from 80 to 400 grit in 25, 50, and 100 packs. Shop wood sanding sandpaper.

Closing Thoughts

Sanding might feel like the less glamorous part of woodworking, but it’s what separates a patchy, uneven stain job from a flawless professional finish. By following the correct grit sequence—starting with coarse removal and ending with fine polishing—you’ll set the stage for stain and topcoats that enhance the natural beauty of your wood. Take your time, work through the grits, and the reward will be a table that looks brand new and lasts for years to come.