Sand Latex Paint Between Coats: 220–320 Grit, No Clogs

Want that professional, glassy wall or cabinet finish? The trick isn’t just the paint—it’s the light sanding you do between coats. Latex paint is soft while curing and can clog the wrong paper instantly. With the right grits, a gentle touch, and smart timing, you can de-nib dust, level tiny roller texture, and keep your finish smooth without scuffing through.

Why Sanding Between Coats Matters

Even careful rolling or brushing leaves micro-nibs: dust particles, raised fibers, and subtle stipple. A quick, controlled sand knocks those down so your next coat levels better and reflects light evenly. Skip it and you’ll trap texture under the next coat; overdo it and you’ll burnish or cut through semi-cured film. The goal is not to remove paint—just to refine the surface.

Tools You’ll Need

• Wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper sheets: 220, 320 (optional 360–400 for ultra-smooth trim).
• Hand sanding block (firm face) plus a soft foam pad for profiles and moldings.
• Random orbital (DA) sander with dust extraction (optional for large, flat doors—use low speed and a soft interface).
• Vacuum with brush attachment, microfiber towels, and tack cloth.
• Raking/inspection light; painter’s tape to protect sharp edges.
• Nitrile gloves, respirator, and eye protection.

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 220 grit: First de-nib on latex walls, doors, and trim; removes dust and minor texture without cutting aggressively.
• 320 grit: Refinement pass when you want a tighter, more uniform surface for enamel-smooth results.
• 360–400 grit (optional): Ultra-light kiss on high-touch trim or doors prior to a final coat.

Step-by-Step: Clog-Free Sanding Between Coats

1. Let the coat cure to sandable. Follow the label and add margin. “Dry to touch” isn’t “ready to sand.” In cool or humid rooms, extend wait times. If the paint pills on the paper, it’s too soft—stop and wait.
2. Prep the surface. Vacuum the wall or door and wipe with a clean microfiber. Set a raking light to reveal nibs and roller stipple. Tape knife-sharp edges to avoid accidental burn-through.
3. Start with 220—light, even strokes. Wrap a fresh sheet around a firm block and use straight, overlapping passes with minimal pressure. For consistent, non-loading cut, use 220 Grit (25-pack). You’re de-nibbing, not leveling drywall compound—count strokes and stop when the sheen turns uniformly satin.
4. Vacuum and inspect. Dust is abrasive. Vacuum, then wipe. Under raking light, stubborn specks or faint texture tell you if a brief second 220 pass is needed.
5. Refine with 320 where perfection shows. On doors, cabinets, or trim that read under strong light, step up to 320 Grit (50-pack). Keep the block flat; on profiles, switch to a soft pad and follow the shape to avoid flats. A couple of with-grain passes is enough.
6. Optional ultra-smooth pass at 360–400. For sprayed or brushed enamel on trim, a feather-light kiss with 360 Grit (100-pack) tightens the field before the final coat. Use almost no pressure—let the sharp grit do the work.
7. Clean thoroughly. Vacuum and tack. Any rogue coarse grain or residue becomes a scratch under your next coat.
8. Recoat smart. Apply paint within the product’s recoat window. Maintain a wet edge, and avoid over-rolling semi-set paint—it creates fresh texture you’ll have to sand again.

Special Cases

Fresh patchwork or joint compound under paint: Compound is softer than cured paint and can sand faster. Keep the block flat and pressure light so you don’t dish patches. If you ever expose paper or magnetize dust, stop and spot-prime before recoating.
Gloss & semi-gloss latex: These show defects more. Spend extra time at 320; finish with-grain on doors and trim for the best light reflection.
Cabinet doors (sprayed finishes): Use a DA sander only with a soft interface pad and low speed; keep the pad dead-flat to prevent pigtails. Hand-block edges and profiles.
High humidity/low temperature: Extend dry times significantly. If in doubt, test-sand an inconspicuous patch to confirm the film powders rather than pills.

Pro Tips

• Fresh paper wins. The moment cut slows or you see any drag, rotate to a new section. Dull sheets polish, then scratch.
• Light pressure only. Let the abrasive skim the nibs. Weight creates heat and rolls soft latex into clogs.
• Alternate directions sparingly. On flat doors, a shallow diagonal pass followed by a with-grain pass reveals leftovers without over-sanding.
• Block flats, pad curves. A firm block maintains geometry on rails and stiles; a soft pad protects ogees and coves.
• Edge safety. Tape sharp arrises and handle them by hand. Most burn-through happens on edges, not the field.
• Clean frequently. Vacuum after every section; dust left behind becomes rogue coarse grit in the next pass.

Aftercare

• Allow the final coat to cure fully before scrubbing or taping. Latex can feel dry yet remain tender for days.
• Touch-ups later? De-nib locally with 320, clean, and feather a thin coat just past the repair.
• Store sheets flat and dry; humidity curls paper and reduces cut quality.

FAQs

• Do I always have to sand between coats? On walls with low sheen, you can sometimes skip between second and third coats if the surface feels clean. For trim and doors, a quick de-nib is worth it every time.
• Why is the paper clogging instantly? The film isn’t cured enough, or you’re pressing too hard. Wait longer and reduce pressure; switch to a fresh, sharp sheet.
• Can I wet-sand latex? Not recommended between coats. Water can soften the film and create smears. Stay dry and dust-managed.
• Is 400 better than 320? Only if you already removed nibs. 320 offers the best balance of cut and refinement; 360–400 is a final kiss on high-gloss trim.
• DA vs hand block? Hand wins for control. If you DA large, flat doors, use low speed, a soft interface pad, and feather-light pressure.

Watch & Learn

Closing: For silky latex finishes, think light, clean, and cured. De-nib with 220, refine with 320, and—when perfection matters—add a whisper of 360–400. Keep your sheets sharp and surfaces dust-free, and your next coat will glide on noticeably smoother. Stock the essentials so you can stay disciplined: start with 220 Grit (25-pack), refine with 320 Grit (50-pack), and finish with a feather-light pass of 360 Grit (100-pack) where ultra-smooth matters.