How to Sand Wooden Table Tops for a Perfect Refinish

A wooden tabletop endures daily wear—from spills to scratches and sun fading. Whether you're restoring an antique or refreshing a modern piece, proper sanding is essential before staining or sealing. This guide explains how to sand wooden table tops for a flawless, even finish that highlights the grain and lasts for years.

Why Sanding Table Tops Is Important

Sanding removes old finishes, smooths dents, and opens the wood grain for stain or oil absorption. Using silicon carbide sandpaper ensures consistent results without clogging, creating a silky, touchable surface that’s ready for the next step—staining, sealing, or clear coating.

Recommended Tools

• Orbital or palm sander
• 9x11" silicon carbide sandpaper sheets
• Sanding block for edges
• Tack cloth or vacuum
• Wood stain, oil, or polyurethane

Ideal Grit Sequence

• 80 grit: Strip old finishes and flatten uneven spots
• 150 grit: Smooth and refine the surface
• 220 grit: Final sanding before staining or finishing

Step-by-Step: Sanding a Wooden Table Top

1. Clean the surface. Wipe away dust and old polish. Remove any nails, staples, or hardware that could damage your sandpaper.
2. Begin coarse sanding. Use 80 Grit (25-pack) silicon carbide paper to remove old finish and level dents or stains. Move with the grain, overlapping each pass for even removal.
3. Smooth and refine. Switch to 150 Grit (50-pack) paper to erase coarse marks and prepare the surface for fine sanding. Vacuum dust between grits to prevent scratches.
4. Final fine sanding. Use 220 Grit (100-pack) for the final pass. This creates a smooth, even texture that enhances stain absorption and finish clarity.
5. Edge and corner sanding. Use a sanding block or folded paper to reach edges and corners. Always follow the grain to avoid swirl marks.
6. Clean before finishing. Wipe thoroughly with a tack cloth or microfiber towel to remove all dust before staining or sealing.

Special Cases

For veneer tables, be extra gentle—only light sanding with 150–220 grit to avoid burning through the thin top layer. For hardwood tables, you can extend sanding up to 320 grit for a glass-like surface before applying polyurethane. Always sand evenly to prevent low spots or color variation.

Pro Tips

• Use silicon carbide sandpaper—it stays sharp and resists clogging.
• Sand with the grain at all stages for a professional look.
• Clean between each grit to prevent embedded dust scratches.
• Use even pressure—don’t linger in one spot to avoid depressions.
• Test stains or finishes on the underside first to confirm color and absorption.

Aftercare

• Allow the finish to cure fully before placing objects on the surface.
• Wipe spills immediately to preserve the coating.
• Reapply oil or wax annually for natural finishes.

FAQs

• Can I skip sanding before staining? No—without sanding, the stain won’t absorb evenly and may appear blotchy.
• Why is my surface uneven? Uneven pressure or skipping grits—re-sand lightly with 150 and 220 grit.
• Can I sand by hand? Yes, especially for small areas or edges. Use consistent pressure and follow the grain.

Watch & Learn

For professional wood refinishing, use silicon carbide sandpapers from the medium sandpaper collection. The 80–150–220 grit sequence ensures a perfectly smooth surface ready for stain, oil, or polyurethane.

Conclusion: Sanding a wooden table top isn’t just about smoothing—it’s about revealing the natural character of the wood. With the right silicon carbide abrasives and methodical progression, you’ll achieve a finish that looks stunning and feels professional-grade to the touch.