How to Sand Kitchen Cabinets for Prep For Paint (120–320)

When kitchen cabinets looks “almost ready,” that’s usually when sanding mistakes show up later—swirls under paint, blotchy stain, or a finish that won’t stick. The fix is a simple, repeatable process: start with the first grit that actually removes the problem (prep for paint), then step up gradually until the scratch pattern is fine and uniform.

This guide uses a practical grit ladder from 120 to 320, plus a workflow that keeps dust under control and prevents common rework.

Why Sanding Matters

Sanding isn’t just making things “smooth.” It’s about surface geometry (leveling high spots and feathering edges) and adhesion (creating a scratch pattern your coating can grip). If the scratches are too deep, they print through paint or oil. If the surface is too polished, primer and paint can struggle to bond—especially on glossy coatings.

A consistent grit progression makes results predictable: each grit removes the scratches from the grit before it, so the surface gets uniformly refined instead of randomly scratched.

Tools

• Sanding block or pad (keeps pressure even on flats).
• Flexible foam interface pad (helps on curves/profiles).
• Vacuum + soft brush attachment (dust control between grits).
• Tack cloth or microfiber (final wipe-down).
• Pencil (quick “witness marks” to track low spots).
• Painter’s tape (protect edges, hinges, adjacent trim).
• Bright side-light or flashlight (reveals scratches and shiny spots).
• Respirator or dust mask + eye protection.

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 120 grit: Fast leveling / defect removal
• 150 grit: Refine after coarse cuts
• 180 grit: Refine after coarse cuts
• 220 grit: Coating-ready smoothing
• 320 grit: Final prep / between-coats smoothing

Step-by-Step

1. Inspect and plan the starting grit. Your first grit should remove prep for paint efficiently, but not so coarse that it creates deep scratches you’ll chase later. In this sequence, start at 120 grit.
2. Clean the surface thoroughly. Dust, wax, and oils clog paper and cause uneven cutting. Let everything dry before sanding.
3. Sand in controlled, overlapping passes. Keep the sheet flat on a block for flat areas. For edges and details, fold the sheet and use light pressure.
4. Check your scratch pattern often. Use a flashlight at a low angle. When the surface looks uniformly matte and the old defects are gone, you can move up.
5. Vacuum and wipe before changing grits. Any leftover coarse grit becomes a random scratch maker in the next step. This one habit prevents most swirl-mark problems.
6. Mid-grit smoothing pass. Use 150 Grit (100 Pack) to erase the coarser scratches and even out the surface texture.
7. Pre-finish prep. Use 220 Grit (100 Pack) to create a consistent “tooth” that paint/primer/stain can bond to without showing scratch lines.
8. Final touch (or between coats). Finish with 320 Grit (100 Pack) using very light pressure. This is ideal for knocking down dust nibs and leaving a uniform feel.
9. Wet or dry choice. These silicon carbide sheets support Wet or Dry Use (Uso en Seco o Húmedo). Wet sanding can reduce dust on higher grits—use minimal water and keep wood exposure controlled.
10. Final clean and readiness test. Wipe, then run your hand across the surface. If it feels uniformly smooth with no “catch” spots, you’re ready for the next coating step.

Special Cases

Profiles, grooves, and door frames: Fold the sheet into a firm edge and use light pressure. On routed details, a soft foam pad helps you keep contact without flattening the profile.

Deglossing glossy paint: Your goal is a uniformly dull surface, not bare wood. Work up to 320 grit for a smooth, paint-ready scuff.

Swirl marks: They usually come from skipping grits or sanding across the grain. Reduce pressure and move up one grit step at a time.

Pro Tips

• Don’t skip grits. Each step removes the scratch pattern from the previous step.
• Use fresh sheets for the last grit—loaded paper polishes instead of cutting and can leave uneven sheen.
• Keep your sanding block clean; trapped grit on the block can create random deep scratches.
• On wood, sand with the grain for the final two grits to make scratches less visible after finishing.
• If dust is heavy, use a light misting bottle for wet sanding only on higher grits and wipe dry immediately.
• Test your finish in a small hidden area first—stain and paint reveal scratch patterns differently.

Aftercare

• Remove all dust before coating; dust left behind becomes texture in paint or “grit” under stain.
• Let the surface dry fully after any damp wiping or wet sanding.
• Label leftover sheets by grit and store flat in a dry place to prevent curling.
• If you’re applying multiple coats, lightly scuff with the top grit between coats for better adhesion.

FAQs

• What happens if I start too coarse? You’ll remove material faster, but you’ll spend extra time stepping up grits to erase deep scratches.
• Can I skip straight to 320 grit for a quick scuff? Only if the surface is already smooth and you just need light deglossing. For defect removal, follow the sequence.
• How do I avoid swirl marks? Don’t skip grits, vacuum between steps, use a block on flats, and keep pressure light on higher grits.
• Should I sand more after primer? Often yes—lightly. A quick scuff levels dust nibs and improves topcoat adhesion.
• Does wet sanding work on wood? It can for fine grits with controlled moisture, but avoid soaking bare wood. Damp-wipe methods are safer than puddles.

Watch & Learn

Micro-check before you coat: look in raking light for leftover coarse scratches, feel for raised grain, and confirm the sheen is uniformly matte. If something looks off, drop back one grit and rework that area—then continue up the sequence.

Need the same grits referenced above? Use the linked sheets in the steps (Wet or Dry Use / Uso en Seco o Húmedo) to match the progression and keep your finish consistent.