Sand Latex Paint Between Coats: 220–400 Grit & Timing

Latex (water-based) paint can show tiny dust nibs, roller stipple, or brush laps between coats. The fix isn’t force—it’s a light, controlled between-coat sand that knocks nibs flat without gumming the paper or scuffing through color. In this guide you’ll learn the right timing, grits, and touch for a clean, silky finish on doors, trim, walls, and cabinets.

Why Sanding Between Coats Matters

Latex dries to the touch long before it’s sandable. If you sand too soon, the soft film smears and clogs paper, leaving scuffs that telegraph through the next coat. A disciplined routine (1) waits for a true powder response, (2) uses tight grit steps to refine texture instead of cutting deeply, and (3) keeps pressure light so you’re shaving nibs—not removing paint.

Tools & Supplies

• Hand sanding block (firm cork/rubber) for flats; thin foam hand pad for profiles and edges.
• Optional DA (random-orbit) sander at low speed with a firm pad for large, flat doors/panels.
• Dry sandpaper: 220, 320, 400 grits (anti-clog/stearated papers preferred).
• Vacuum or dust extractor, clean microfibers, and a light tack cloth.
• Raking/inspection light; pencil for faint witness marks.
• Painter’s tape to protect crisp edges and adjacent parts.
• PPE: respirator (P100) when sanding, eye protection; good ventilation.

Recommended Grit Sequence

• 220 grit: First corrective pass if texture/nibs are obvious (walls with roller stipple, brushed trim with ridges).
• 320 grit: Primary between-coat de-nib once the film is truly sandable (powders).
• 400 grit: Optional whisper pass right before the final coat on show surfaces (doors, cabinets, trim).

Step-by-Step: Smooth, Clog-Free Between-Coat Sanding

1. Verify sandability (powder test). In a hidden spot, make 3–4 strokes with 320. If dust powders, you’re good. If it smears or pills, wait longer. Humidity and heavy coats extend dry times.
2. Protect edges & map the panel. Tape sharp arrises. Under raking light, pencil a faint crosshatch on the surface—witness marks tell you when each grit has finished so you don’t over-sand.
3. Correct texture at 220 (only if needed). Wrap a firm block with 220 Grit (25-pack). With feather-light pressure and long, overlapping strokes, knock down roller peaks or brush ridges. On large flat doors or panels, a DA at low speed with a firm pad is fine—keep it dead-flat. Stop as soon as the pencil map just disappears; don’t chase perfection at 220.
4. Primary de-nib at 320. Switch to 320 Grit (50-pack). Slightly change stroke direction so leftover 220 marks reveal themselves, then finish with the part’s visual flow (vertical on doors/frames). Goal: shave nibs and unify sheen without cutting through.
5. Optional glass-up at 400 (show faces). Before the final coat on cabinets, doors, and trim, make two or three whisper-light passes with 400 Grit (100-pack). If the surface starts to shine while sanding, you’re burnishing—swap to a fresh sheet and lighten pressure.
6. Clean impeccably. Vacuum in two directions, wipe with a clean microfiber, then lightly tack. Any dust you leave now becomes grit lines in the next coat.
7. Recoat smart. Apply thin, even coats at the manufacturer’s spread rate. Maintain a wet edge; avoid over-brushing waterborne paints—they set fast and can drag the film.

Special Cases

Walls with heavy roller stipple: Enter at 220, but keep it brief—then 320. If peaks persist, you may need a light skim coat before sanding.
Brush marks on trim: Sand with the grain on a firm block; a DA can leave halos on narrow moldings.
Cabinet doors (factory primer): Many primers sand harder than topcoat; expect better powdering and a cleaner 320 response.
Fresh paint that keeps clogging: It isn’t cured enough. Wait for a true powder response; forcing it creates scuffs and pigtails.

Pro Tips

• Flat backer = flat reflection. Fingers dig troughs that telegraph under gloss. Block flats; use a thin foam hand pad only on gentle profiles.
• Fresh sheets beat pressure. When cut slows, rotate to a new quadrant. Pressure makes heat and smears latex.
• Alternate directions. Slight angle change at each step exposes leftover scratches before you climb.
• Edge discipline. Do edges by hand at the current grit—two counted strokes. Most cut-throughs start at corners.
• Stay dry between coats. Save wet-sanding for cured films only; moisture can soften a fresh latex coat.

Aftercare

• Respect recoat windows and cure times—cool, humid rooms slow dry.
• Keep the space clean during cure; airborne dust becomes the next round of nibs.
• For touch-ups, lightly scuff the area with 320, clean, and apply a thin blended coat.
• Use non-ammonia, finish-safe cleaners on young paint; harsh products can haze the film.

FAQs

• Can I skip 220 and start at 320? Yes—if texture is light. Use 220 only to knock down obvious ridges or stipple.
• Why does my paper clog? The coat isn’t sandable yet or you’re pushing too hard. Wait for powdering and lighten up.
• Mesh or paper? Mesh extracts dust well and resists clogging; paper often leaves a slightly tighter scratch at fine grits. Either works with good timing and light pressure.
• Will 400 hurt adhesion? Used lightly on a cured film just before the final coat, no. Don’t burnish; keep the surface evenly matte.
• DA or by hand? Hand control is safest on trim and edges. A DA at low speed works on big flats if kept dead-flat.

Watch & Learn

Closing: Smooth latex between coats comes from timing and touch. Wait for a true powder response, then run a tight ladder: tame ridges with 220 (25-pack), de-nib universally at 320 (50-pack), and—on show faces—whisper a final 400 (100-pack). Keep the backer flat, pressure feather-light, and the room clean—your next coat will lay flatter, flash evenly, and cure to a silky finish.