How to Sand Rusty Steel: with a Sanding Block (Budget Setup)
Getting a clean, even surface is the difference between a finish that looks “okay” and one that looks intentional. This guide shows the grit sequence and technique to sand Rusty Steel for de-burr cut edges, with simple checks so you don’t over-sand or leave deep scratches behind.
Why Sanding Matters
Sanding removes defects and leaves a controlled scratch pattern that helps your next layer bond and level. The right progression saves time because each grit only removes the scratches from the previous step.
Tools
- Sanding block or foam pad
- Vacuum or tack cloth
- Clean microfiber rags
- Painter’s tape (mask edges)
- Safety glasses and dust mask
Recommended Grit Sequence
- 80 grit — move to this grit once scratches from the previous step are gone.
- 120 grit — move to this grit once scratches from the previous step are gone.
- 180 grit — move to this grit once scratches from the previous step are gone.
- 220 grit — move to this grit once scratches from the previous step are gone.
- 320 grit — move to this grit once scratches from the previous step are gone.
Step-by-Step
- Clean and inspect. Remove dust, wax, and oils from the Rusty Steel so the abrasive cuts evenly.
- Start with defect removal. Use 120 Grit (100-pack) to level high spots, peel edges, or old finish quickly—stop as soon as the surface is uniform.
- Progress through the sequence. Work through the recommended grits, sanding with light, even pressure and overlapping strokes.
- Refine scratches. Switch to 220 Grit (10-pack) and sand until the previous grit’s lines disappear under raking light.
- Control dust. Vacuum between grits (and wipe with a tack cloth) so loose particles don’t create random deep scratches.
- Finish for the next coat. Use 320 Grit (25-pack) for a consistent final profile—ideal before paint, stain, clear coat, or polishing.
- Final wipe-down. Clean the surface, then allow it to fully dry before applying the next product.
Special Cases
Edges & corners: Fold the sheet and use fingertip pressure lightly—avoid rounding crisp edges.
Curves: Wrap paper around a foam pad so contact stays even.
Wet sanding: For finer grits, a light water mist can reduce clogging (use only if the next finish and material allow it).
Pro Tips
- Mark the surface with a pencil grid; when the marks disappear, you’re evenly sanded.
- Change sheets when cutting slows—dull paper causes heat and swirl marks.
- Use consistent stroke direction per grit; change direction slightly at the next grit to spot leftover scratches.
- Don’t skip more than one grit step to avoid chasing deep scratches later.
Aftercare
- Store sheets flat and dry to prevent curled edges.
- Dispose of dust safely; some finishes produce combustible dust—keep away from sparks.
- Seal or coat soon after sanding so the surface doesn’t pick up oils or moisture.
FAQs
- What grit should I stop at for de-burr cut edges? Use the last grit in the recommended sequence unless your finish maker specifies otherwise.
- How do I know when to move to the next grit? When scratches from the previous grit are gone across the whole surface.
- Wet or dry? Wet sanding helps with clogging on fine grits; dry sanding is faster for early shaping.
Watch & Learn
Tip: watch for scratch pattern changes between grits—if you still see long lines from the previous step, stay on the current grit a little longer before moving on.
Need specific sheets for your project? Browse the full collection here: https://equalle.com/collections/all.
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