How to Sand Headlights
Headlights (Polycarbonate): If your goal is to restore shine, sanding is all about control: consistent pressure, a sensible grit progression, and checking your scratch pattern under good light. Below is a repeatable workflow that keeps you from over-sanding while still getting a smooth, uniform surface.
Why Sanding Matters
Most βbad finishesβ come from uneven scratch patternsβeither skipping grits, pressing too hard, or sanding without a flat reference (like a block). The right grit sequence levels the surface first, then progressively refines the scratches so your final finish (or polish) looks even.
Recommended Tools
- Sanding block (firm for flat areas, flexible for gentle curves)
- Spray bottle with clean water + a drop of dish soap (for wet sanding control)
- Microfiber towels and a lint-free cloth
- Masking tape to protect edges and adjacent finishes
- Bright task light (raking light) to reveal scratches/texture
Recommended Grit Sequence
- 600 grit β pre-finish smoothing
- 800 grit β pre-finish smoothing
- 1000 grit β pre-finish smoothing
- 1500 grit β pre-finish smoothing
- 2000 grit β pre-finish smoothing
- 3000 grit β pre-finish smoothing
Step-by-Step
- Prep the area: clean headlights (polycarbonate) thoroughly, then dry-wipe so grit doesnβt get dragged across the surface.
- Mask anything you donβt want to sand (adjacent finish, glass trim, hinges, or sharp corners that burn through fast).
- Start with 1500 Grit (10-pack) using light, even pressure. Keep the block flat; let the abrasive do the work.
- Switch directions every few passes (crosshatch). This makes it obvious when the previous scratch pattern is fully removed.
- Move to 2000 Grit (10-pack) to refine. At this stage youβre replacing deeper scratches with finer ones.
- For wet sanding: mist the surface, keep it uniformly damp, and wipe slurry often so you can see progress.
- Finish with 3000 Grit (10-pack) for a consistent, finish-ready surface. Stop as soon as the texture looks uniform under raking light.
- Clean again: vacuum/wipe, then a final damp microfiber pass. Any leftover grit will telegraph into your finish or polish.
Special Cases
Profiles & grooves: wrap paper around a foam pad to match the shape without rounding crisp lines. Veneer risk: if the piece is veneered, stay conservativeβuse the least aggressive grit that still cuts.
Pro Tips
- Use raking light (flashlight at a low angle). If you can still see the previous scratch direction, youβre not ready to move up.
- Donβt jump grits too far. Small steps save time because each grit removes the previous pattern faster.
- Change paper when it stops cutting. Dull paper makes you press harder (and that causes uneven sanding).
- Keep pressure even across the blockβespecially near edges where burn-through happens first.
Aftercare
- Remove masking tape carefully and wipe the surface clean one more time.
- If youβre painting or coating wood, apply a compatible primer/sealer and sand lightly between coats as needed.
- For glass clarity, follow sanding with a polishing step (compound + pad) until the haze is reduced.
- Store unused sheets flat and dry so they donβt curl or contaminate with dust.
FAQs
- Can I wet sand this? Yesβsilicon carbide sheets are suitable for wet or dry use; wet sanding often helps control dust and scratch depth.
- How do I know when to switch grits? When the entire area shows only the current gritβs scratch pattern, with no leftover lines from the previous step.
- What if I sand through a finish on wood? Stop, feather the transition, then plan to recoat the entire panel for a uniform sheen.
- Do I need a power sander? Not for small areasβhand sanding with a block is safer for edges, corners, and controlled leveling.
Watch & Learn
Tip while you watch: pause at the grit-change moments and compare scratch direction. If your scratch pattern doesnβt fully βflipβ to the new direction, stay on the current grit a bit longer before moving up.
Need sheets in the exact grit youβre using today? Explore the full selection here: silicon carbide sandpaper sheets.
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