Polish Epoxy Countertops: Haze Removal (600–2000 Grit)

Freshly installed epoxy countertops sometimes look a bit cloudy or have fine swirl marks, especially under bright kitchen lighting. That haze is just micro-texture left from curing or light scuffs from transport and install. The fix is a short, disciplined wet-sanding and polishing sequence that levels the micro-texture, tightens the scratch pattern, and restores deep clarity—without cutting through the finish.

Why Sanding Matters on Epoxy

Epoxy can appear glossy yet still scatter light because of microscopic peaks and valleys. Proper wet sanding removes those peaks in controlled steps so polishing can bring back mirror clarity quickly. Go too coarse (or press too hard) and you’ll create new swirls; skip grits and you’ll trap texture that never quite buffs out. The right abrasives, light pressure, water as a lubricant, and a tight grit ladder are the keys.

Tools & Supplies

• Wet/dry silicon carbide sandpaper sheets (600, 1000, 2000; optional 3000).
• Soft foam interface pad for a random-orbital (DA) sander, plus a hard block for flats.
• Spray bottle with clean water (1 small drop of dish soap helps float slurry).
• Microfiber towels, squeegee, and tack cloth.
• Raking/angle light to reveal remaining scratches.
• Medium cut compound + finishing polish; foam pads (low/med speed).
• PPE: respirator, eye protection, and hearing protection.

Recommended Grit Sequence (Haze Removal)

• 600 grit (wet): Levels the micro-texture that causes cloudiness.
• 1000 grit (wet): Erases 600 lines and tightens the field.
• 2000 grit (wet): Pre-polish clarity—buffs fast to a deep gloss.
• Optional 3000: Only if you want an ultra-quick final polish step.

Step-by-Step: From Cloudy to Crystal

1. Clean & light the surface. Degrease the counter, then set a raking light across it. Mark a light pencil crosshatch in a small test area; it’s your visual stop line so you don’t over-sand.
2. Start at 600 (wet). Mist the surface with water. With a soft interface pad and very light pressure, make long overlapping passes until the pencil marks just disappear and the sheen looks uniformly satin. Use fresh, sharp sheets—start with 600 Grit (25-pack). Squeegee often; if you still see random shiny pits (low spots), stay at 600 until they’re gone.
3. Refine at 1000 (wet). Rinse, wipe, and change direction slightly (e.g., diagonal to your previous passes). Your goal is to replace all 600 lines with a tighter, even pattern. Step up to 1000 Grit (50-pack) and keep strokes long and pressure feather-light.
4. Pre-polish at 2000 (wet). Repeat the rinse and inspect routine. Sand lightly until the 1000 pattern is fully gone. Cap the sanding with 2000 Grit (100-pack) to leave a smooth, uniform surface that compounds quickly.
5. Optional 3000 pass. If you want to shorten machine time, a quick 3000 wet pass can give you a near-polished look ahead of compound.
6. Polish. Dry the surface fully. Use a medium-cut compound on a foam pad at low speed; work small sections, then switch to a finishing polish for maximum depth. Keep pads clean—contamination is the #1 cause of new swirls.
7. Final check & blend. Under raking light, check from multiple angles. If a faint halo appears, back up one grit in that small spot, fix it, and re-advance. Blend your polish passes slightly beyond each area for a uniform sheen.

Special Cases

Matte or satin epoxy: Many matte systems are intentionally micro-textured. Wet-sand only to refine defects, then stop short of full gloss (e.g., 1000→1500) and use a matte-safe finishing pad.
Tinted or metallic pours: These telegraph coarse scratches; spend extra time at 600–1000 for a perfectly even field before moving up.
Integrated sinks & tight radii: Hand-sand on a soft pad; a tipped DA can catch edges and haze the curve.
Warm surfaces: If sun or lighting warms the slab, cool it first. Heat promotes smearing and cloudy patches.

Pro Tips

• Keep it wet. Water + a tiny drop of surfactant floats slurry so sheets don’t skate or load.
• Time-on-grit discipline. Don’t move up until all scratches from the previous grit are gone under a squeegee check.
• Light pressure wins. Let the abrasive cut; heavy pressure makes heat and haze.
• Clean as you go. Rinse, wipe, and brush the abrasive face between sections to avoid rogue scratches.
• Block flats, pad curves. A firm block keeps panels flat; soft foam preserves edges and profiles.
• Fresh pads & towels. Old compound or grit in a pad instantly re-introduces swirls.

Aftercare

• Let the polished surface rest a day before aggressive cleaning.
• Use pH-neutral cleaners; avoid ammonia or abrasive powders that can re-haze epoxy.
• Add felt pads under small appliances/decor to prevent micro-scratches in high-traffic zones.
• For seasonal refresh, a quick 2000 wet kiss followed by finishing polish usually restores full clarity.

FAQs

• Do I need to start at 600? If the counter only has light install scuffs, you can test at 1000. If clarity doesn’t pop quickly, drop to 600 for a short pass.
• Dry-sand or wet-sand? Wet sanding controls heat and yields clearer results on epoxy. Reserve dry sanding for earlier leveling before install.
• Will sanding change the color? No—done correctly you’re only refining the top texture, not removing a colored layer.
• Why do swirls reappear after polishing? Usually trapped 600 scratches or dirty pads. Back up one grit locally, re-refine, use clean pads, and re-polish.
• Can I stop at 2000 and skip compound? You’ll get a nice satin-gloss, but compound + finish polish deliver maximum depth and reflection.

Watch & Learn

Closing: For post-install haze, a short ladder—600 → 1000 → 2000 (all wet)—followed by a clean, patient polish is all it takes. Stock the key sheets so you can stay disciplined at each step: start with 600 Grit (25-pack), refine quickly with 1000 Grit (50-pack), and leave a fast-buff surface with 2000 Grit (100-pack).