Level Tabletop Epoxy Waves Without Telegraphed Scratches

Tabletop epoxy is great at hiding small imperfections—until harsh light rakes across the surface and reveals a washboard of tiny waves. Leveling those undulations is absolutely possible without sanding through color layers or leaving deep tracks that “telegraph” after you recoat. The key is a hard-backed, straight-stroke approach and a grit sequence that’s just coarse enough to flatten, then refined to a polish-ready haze.

Why sanding discipline matters

Epoxy is tough but relatively soft compared to glass or ceramic. Coarse grits bite fast, but they also cut deep valleys that require tons of film build or heavy compounding to hide. Soft pads follow the waves instead of flattening them, and fingertip pressure dishes low spots you’ll see forever. Using a firm block and a tight progression (220→400→600→1000→1500) lets you shear peaks flat while keeping the scratch shallow and linear—easy to recoat or polish without ghost lines.

Tools & supplies

• Hard, flat sanding block (phenolic/Delrin); small profile block for edges
• Random-orbital sander with a firm interface pad (optional for refining; block controls flatness best)
• Silicon carbide wet/dry sheets: 220, 400, 600, 1000, 1500 (3000 optional)
• Spray bottle with clean water + a drop of dish soap (lubrication)
• Guide coat (wax pencil or very light contrasting mist) and a bright raking light
• Masking tape to protect edges, inlays, and soft wood adjacent to the pour
• Microfiber towels, squeegee, and a shop vacuum
• PPE: respirator, eye/hand protection—epoxy dust is real dust

Recommended grit sequence

• Flatten: 220 on a hard block to shear peaks and unify the plane.
• Refine: 400 → 600 to erase coarse lines and even the field.
• Pre-polish/Pre-recoat: 1000 → 1500 (→ 3000 optional) to leave a tight, shallow scratch that buffs fast or disappears under a new flood coat.

Step-by-step

1. Confirm cure and clean. Epoxy must be fully cured per the manufacturer or it will ball up and smear. Wash with mild soap and water, dry, and wipe with a clean microfiber. Mask close to edges and any delicate inlays so you don’t round them while flattening.
2. Map highs and lows with a guide coat. Lightly haze the surface with a wax pencil or a faint contrasting mist. Under raking light, the color will hang in the low troughs and disappear first from the high ridges—this is your road map.
3. Begin leveling at 220 on a hard backer. Mist a little soapy water and sand in long, overlapping straight strokes. Keep the block flat and pressure light; you’re shaving peaks, not digging lows. Swap sheets as soon as the cut slows. Stock a dependable supply like 220 Grit Sandpaper (25-pack) so you never push a dull sheet that skates and scuffs.
4. Squeegee and read the plane. Pull slurry with a squeegee and check the guide coat. When only isolated low islands remain, resist the urge to poke at them—two or three full-width passes are safer and keep the surface true.
5. Refine to 400, then 600. Change your stroke angle slightly (e.g., lengthwise at 220, gentle diagonal at 400, lengthwise again at 600) so leftover scratches are obvious. Stay on a firm block for 400; an RO with a firm pad is fine at 600. For consistent results across big tops, keep fresh sheets ready like 400 Grit Sandpaper (50-pack).
6. Set a recoat-friendly haze at 1000. If you plan to pour a thin re-flood coat, 1000–1500 is ideal: it gives tooth without visible scratches telegraphing through. Keep water present but not flooding; puddles hide lows and can float the sheet.
7. Pre-polish at 1500 (and 3000 optional). Make one or two light passes until the surface shows a uniform, ultra-fine matte. This tight scratch buffs quickly and helps avoid haze. For production consistency, finish this step with 1500 Grit Sandpaper (100-pack).
8. Polish or recoat. For polish: use a non-aggressive compound rated for 1500–3000 and a firm foam pad; keep heat low and the pad flat. For recoat: wipe clean, follow your brand’s amine-blush protocol if required, then pour a controlled flood coat.
9. De-nib between coats (optional). After a re-flood cures hard, kiss any dust nibs with 1500–3000 on a tiny hard block, then polish or apply the next coat.

Special cases

Severe waves or embedded nibs: If your guide coat barely moves at 220, you can briefly test 180 on the flats only with an extra-hard block, then re-enter at 220. Stop the instant the plane unifies; deeper scratches mean more work later.
Soft wood adjacent to epoxy rivers: Tape the wood and keep the block mostly on the epoxy so you don’t dish the timber alongside the pour. Remove tape for the final 600+ passes to blend the sheen.
Color layers and metallics: Treat them gently—coarse lines can leave “ghosts” that show under clear. Favor 220 as your opener and don’t linger.

Pro tips

• Hard backing wins. Soft foam follows waves; a firm block bridges and flattens them.
• One direction per grit. Alternate directions (straight/diagonal/straight) so previous scratches are easy to see and remove.
• Change sheets early. Loaded paper skates and seeds random arcs you’ll chase later.
• Work cool. If the surface feels warm, pause—heat softens fresh epoxy and slows cut.
• Edge protocol. Keep tape on edges during leveling, then remove it for a single, light pass with the finest grit to unify sheen.
• Guide coat = truth. Stop the moment witness color disappears evenly—extra strokes only polish and risk burn-through.
• Use pencil witness marks. A quick grid at each grit keeps you honest and prevents over-sanding.

Aftercare

• Allow full cure before heavy use or aggressive cleaners; follow your brand’s data sheet.
• Clean with mild soap and water; avoid strong alkalines that can haze fresh resin.
• If light scuffs appear later, a quick 1500→3000 hand pass and a finishing polish usually restores clarity without another pour.
• Protect from UV if your resin isn’t UV-stable; use a compatible topcoat or keep out of direct sun.

FAQs

• Can I start at 120 to go faster? Only on severe texture—and only with a dead-flat, hard block. Expect more refinement work and higher risk of telegraphed lines. 220 is the safer opener for most tops.
• Dry or wet? Wet keeps dust down and cuts cooler. Use a light soapy mist; puddles hide lows.
• Do I have to go to 3000? No. 1500 is a great stop for polish or recoat. 3000 just speeds buffing and minimizes haze on dark colors.
• Why is my paper loading? Either the epoxy isn’t fully cured or you’re pressing too hard. Wait the full window and lighten up.
• Will re-flood hide scratches? Clear flood coats bury a clean 1000–1500 scratch easily. Deep, random 120–180 lines can show—flatten and refine first.

Video

Closing

Epoxy tables look like glass when the surface is truly flat and the scratch is tight and uniform. Work with a hard backer, keep strokes straight, and ride a smart ladder—220 → 400 → 600 → 1000 → 1500. Change sheets early, read the guide coat, and finish cool. Do that, and waves disappear, clarity returns, and your top is ready to polish or re-flood—without telegraphed scratches.