How to Smooth Out Brush Marks in Paint—From 220 to 600 Grit Finish

Even the steadiest painter can end up with brush strokes or uneven texture on trim, cabinets, or doors. Fortunately, light sanding between coats eliminates these imperfections, creating a sleek, factory-smooth surface. This guide walks you through how to flatten brush marks safely using fine-grit sandpaper and proper technique.

Why Sanding Eliminates Brush Marks

Brush marks form when paint dries unevenly or too thick. Sanding knocks down ridges and levels the surface without removing too much paint. The key is using the right grit sequence and pressure—too coarse and you’ll cut through the layer, too fine and the next coat won’t bond properly.

Recommended Tools

• Wet/dry sandpaper (220–600 grit range).
• Flexible sanding pad or foam block.
• Tack cloth and microfiber rags.
• High-quality brush or sprayer for recoating.
• Good lighting and clean workspace.

Ideal Grit Sequence

• 220 grit – Flatten visible brush ridges.
• 400 grit – Smooth refined surface before topcoat.
• 600 grit – Optional ultra-smooth finish for high-gloss paints.

Step-by-Step: Removing Brush Marks

1. Allow paint to dry completely. Wait at least 24 hours (or per manufacturer’s directions). Sanding too soon can gum up paper and ruin the finish.
2. Inspect the surface. Use raking light to reveal ridges or uneven reflections—these are your target areas.
3. Initial leveling. Start with 220 Grit (25-pack) sandpaper. Lightly sand with even strokes along the brush direction until ridges disappear. Wipe clean with a tack cloth.
4. Mid-stage smoothing. Switch to 400 Grit (50-pack) for gentle refinement. Sand lightly over the entire area for a uniform sheen.
5. Final polish (optional). For glossy finishes, use 600 Grit (100-pack) wet/dry paper. Keep the surface damp to prevent heat buildup and swirl marks.
6. Clean thoroughly. Remove all dust with a microfiber cloth or vacuum before applying your next coat of paint.
7. Recoat evenly. Apply the next coat with a high-quality brush or sprayer in thin, consistent strokes. Avoid over-brushing—let the paint self-level.

Special Cases

Oil-based paints self-level better than water-based ones, but both benefit from light sanding. For latex paints, use finer pressure and allow longer dry times between coats. If you accidentally sand through the layer, spot-prime before recoating to maintain uniform sheen.

Pro Tips

• Always sand with the grain on wood surfaces to avoid cross-scratches.
• Use a foam block to distribute pressure evenly over trim and panels.
• Keep sandpaper dry when sanding matte or chalk paints; use wet-sanding for glossy enamels.
• Use compressed air or a tack cloth between grits for maximum cleanliness.
• Apply multiple thin coats instead of one thick coat for best leveling results.

Aftercare

• Let the final coat cure for 5–7 days before cleaning or handling.
• Clean painted surfaces with mild soap and water only—avoid harsh chemicals.
• For high-traffic areas, apply a clear protective topcoat for added durability.
• Store leftover paint tightly sealed to prevent thickening for touch-ups.

FAQs

• Can I use a power sander? Not recommended—manual sanding gives more control and prevents cutting through thin paint layers.
• Why does my surface look patchy after sanding? That’s normal; primer or the next coat will even it out completely.
• Can I skip 400 grit? Only if the surface already feels smooth and you’re using matte paint. Gloss finishes always need a finer step.

Watch & Learn

By lightly sanding from 220 through 600 grit between coats, you can remove brush marks and create a glass-like paint finish—smooth, reflective, and professional-looking every time.